11/23/2013

1/32nd Scale Slot.it McLaren - No. 48 - 1st Mosport 1970 #CA26A
*Wrench for wheels & gears and spare wing taped under the case

The most anticipated release from Slot.it has finally arrived. Most advanced enthusiasts already have them in hand and the feedback about it has been the buzz of the web. Here is my quick view of possibly the 2013 Slot Car of The Year winner.

Quick Tech Data

CAN-AM enthusiasts are a dedicated crowd to say the least. Mostly because they know that this series was one with true innovation mixed with high horsepower and great designs. It is a series I wish I could have seen in person. But thanks to my friends I have enjoyed many hours of home video that really relayed the excitement of this series.

You might as well research this great car and get to know as much about it and this series as you can. This historic model has been a fan favorite for quite awhile and a lot of us veteran enthusiasts have always waited for the time when Slot.it would make one. That time is now.

My photos are not as good as what you have already seen, but hopefully they tell most of the story for you.

Now for the nitpicking department. Is is a little low? Possibly. The static appearance of the car looks a little low. Some have commented that the vertical fins are "missing" from the front fenders as is the the famous "Gurney hump" in the roll bar. Yet these items were added later in the season and not particular to this car in the 1970 race it is modeled after.

The wheels in the rear could be a little wider as well and the wheel inserts could be set deeper. But given the sidewinder configuration, this is about as wide as it gets. That is fine by me but you may not like it. You could sand the inside of the inserts or even remove material from the hub center to set the insert in deeper. I won't bother but there options for those that want to.

I understand from a racers viewpoint the decisions made. The model is intended to be raced in the "Classic" series by Slot.it and that means sidewinder configuration using the wheels and tires they already have that will fit. For me, I would rather have the car as close to compatible as possible for the series intended.

Paint and markings are as good as it gets. My model simply shows no flaws in these departments. Color appears to be correct and markings are very crisp and clean.

As we look underneath there are no surprises. As stated, it is the standard sidewinder configuration as it should be for this series.

Before we go any further, here are a couple statements direct from Slot.it regarding the model.

1 - The front wheels/tires: Due to the very low M8D body shape and wheel clearance, are shipped in a 'low' position so not to interfere with the body itself. If tires are replaced with very skinny unit (e.g. Slot.it PT19) then the front plastic bushing can be turned upside down or removed, to move the front wheels to a higher position, lowering the car's stance on the track.

2 - In this specific car (CA26a), we've discovered one minute too late that, when loosening the motor pod, the motor touches the inside of the body. This was due to bad communication with the factory. The car runs still well, but this is not desirable and has been fixed already for the McLaren CA26b (Led Zeppelin car) and the white kits. I suggest, for this car, if necessary, to place a small washer under the rear screw pillar.

I commend Slot.it for letting the enthusiasts know about known issues and taking action. Not many slot car companies care this much I assure you. Perhaps this is just one of the many reasons why this brand is one of my favorites.

So let us take a look at these issues before we head to the track.

There are oval shaped bushings with an offset hole that hold the front axle. Twist and remove one of the front wheels and you can see them.

The photo above should show you what happens when you flip them. The bottom shows you how high the axle can bet set and why the tires are rubbing the body. In my view, the stock setting is fine. But those that are racing old Scalextric, NINCO, or other track with slightly raised rails then you might want to flip them. I would just sand the stock tires to reduce diameter or purchase tires as already discussed to help reduce rubbing.

In my opinion these bushings are not my ideal approach for setting the front axle. I prefer to remove them completely and utilize the set screw method. WHY? Because these bushings are sometimes difficult to set inside the chassis correctly. They are precisely drilled and the slightest angle will have the front axle binding. That is one reason why you hear reports of the axle not spinning out of the box.

I like this method as it makes it easier to set the ride height of the axle for the track surface I am racing on. Plus when you set it correctly, the front axle spins freely every time. Just use your setup block to make sure they are as evenly adjusted as possible. If you do not have any spare screws then it's time to order some. I like using the SCC screws shown here. If you are going to start tuning with Slot.it models or using aluminum wheels for projects, having these screws on hand is almost mandatory.

The second issue Slot.it reported is the motor rubbing the inside of the body. I used a black magic marker and heavily coated the top areas of the motor and then pressed the chassis back in place. I moved the pod a little back and forth and then removed the chassis. The ink rubbed off a little exposing the areas. I used a paint tool to enhance the locations where contact is made.

Best advice is to do what Slot.it suggests. Use small washer on the body post to raise it a little higher. Most scale enthusiasts are already complaining about the low height, so this will help fix that easily enough and it does not raise it that much so it would extremely effect performance.

Do not try to sand the body. It is so thin that you will quickly ruin the body with a nice hole in top if you go too far.

A third issue for me is the motor shaft. It sticks out quiet a bit and is visible from the sides. It also is VERY close to rubbing the tire. Too close for me anyway. You do NOT have to perform this as it does not rub. This is just MY PERSONAL view and sharing it with you.

Solution is easy. Using the standard cut off disc in the Dremel, trim the excess away.

I also noticed the other end could use some trimming as well as the pinion could be pressed on a little farther. The gears mesh ok, but it appeared to me that it could use a little more to compensate for wider tires if you decided to install them.

The tires I chose are the stock size and they fit perfectly. You can try other sizes to suit your taste in width/height.

Routed Wood Track Test
MidMo International Speedway
4x16 - 3 Lane MDF - Satin/Flat Latex Surface
Slot Car Corner Braid/Flush Mount - Aftermarket Power @ Volts
Professor Motor 2110 Low Voltage Electronic Controllers

After these quick modifications it was time for some laps. All I can say is that there is a reason Slot.it has the solid reputation it has today. VERY smooth and certainly quick. It will need some lead tuning here and there to get it right where I like it, but just in this form it is simply a joy to drive.

Just the sight of this model on the track is pleasing. For me this is model car racing at it's finest. A slot car that has quality components inside means it delivers quality performance outside. The scale authenticity is captured well enough and the mechanical performance should please just about every enthusiast.

The Slot.it reproduction of this famous car is about as good as it gets in our hobby today. To my eyes it is more than acceptable. Fit and finish is excellent overall along with the expected performance the brand commands.

As it is now, this is my choice for Slot Car of The Year. We have a couple more offerings to look at here in the few weeks but something tells me this car takes center stage on the podium.

- Harry

As always feel free to contact me about this article or just the hobby in general at harry@homeracingworld.com