Fly Guide/chassis Tip
Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 9:19 amHi Folks, This is the Fly version of the "Scaley guide Tip" thread, and unlike the Scaley version, this one applies to Fly chassis', whether you use the stock guide, or your favourite replacement.
This tip/process will eliminate "tank slappers" which don't help your forward progress, and, can result in broken guide tongues/guide post holders.
Most brands of plastic slot cars will benefit from a guide that rotates more than stock.......both in terms of performance, and longevity, and a similar modification will help those as well.
Here's to faster smoother driving cars, and longer lasting chassis' :dance:
Cheers
Chris Walker
PS I have done this to many many Fly cars, my own, club members, and shop customers, with no issues.
The first picture is of a stock Fly chassis/Guide, with the guide rotated as far as it can go. When racing, (especially without magnets) it is easy to make the car slide more than the stock chassis design permits............when this happens, the guide is slammed against the chassis........you get a "tank slapper", or worse, either the guide blade, or, the chassis breaks!!
The next picture is a top view of the first picture......here you can see where the guide butts up against the chassis, preventing it from rotating further.
The fix is simple......I have highlighted with a silver sharpie, the area of the chassis to be removed. I normally use a round burr in a Dremel, but, a round file, or even an Xacto (if you are careful) can be used.
The following picture shows the modification made to the left hand (as you are looking at it) side of the chassis.
For this Demo I have used the stock guide, and in the last picture you can see that the guide is now able to rotate considerably more than stock (first pic.)
For those concerned that removing plastic will weaken the chassis...rest easy.....now that the guide can rotate nearly 90 degrees, you eliminate the potential of the guide hammering on the chassis/guide post, and chassis breaks in this area are a thing of the past.........however, if you step on your car, or drop it on the floor, it is not my problem :D
This tip/process will eliminate "tank slappers" which don't help your forward progress, and, can result in broken guide tongues/guide post holders.
Most brands of plastic slot cars will benefit from a guide that rotates more than stock.......both in terms of performance, and longevity, and a similar modification will help those as well.
Here's to faster smoother driving cars, and longer lasting chassis' :dance:
Cheers
Chris Walker
PS I have done this to many many Fly cars, my own, club members, and shop customers, with no issues.
The first picture is of a stock Fly chassis/Guide, with the guide rotated as far as it can go. When racing, (especially without magnets) it is easy to make the car slide more than the stock chassis design permits............when this happens, the guide is slammed against the chassis........you get a "tank slapper", or worse, either the guide blade, or, the chassis breaks!!
The next picture is a top view of the first picture......here you can see where the guide butts up against the chassis, preventing it from rotating further.
The fix is simple......I have highlighted with a silver sharpie, the area of the chassis to be removed. I normally use a round burr in a Dremel, but, a round file, or even an Xacto (if you are careful) can be used.
The following picture shows the modification made to the left hand (as you are looking at it) side of the chassis.
For this Demo I have used the stock guide, and in the last picture you can see that the guide is now able to rotate considerably more than stock (first pic.)
For those concerned that removing plastic will weaken the chassis...rest easy.....now that the guide can rotate nearly 90 degrees, you eliminate the potential of the guide hammering on the chassis/guide post, and chassis breaks in this area are a thing of the past.........however, if you step on your car, or drop it on the floor, it is not my problem :D