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Just a quick one for those working on them. I wanted to allow increased room for the lead wires to minimize the pressure they make on the front axle.



I just glued the detail structure so it was independant of the center.



Then I milled out the center. This really allows more room for the wires than you might think.

It's great to see fixes like these. I picked up the Graham Hill car, and the front end is a mess- the top and bottom don't mate-up properly which works as a brake on the front wheels, both on the inside of the wheel itself and against the axle. It looks like removing the detail parts, ling them up and reattaching them, and then reaming or filing them out to allow for unhindered spinning is the only option.

In my opinion the front end is the worst executed part of the car. The design is fine, but it needs to be assembled at the factory perfectly and it looks like a lot of cars weren't.

Yes, it is not a very precise assembly.



I did just that. I glued the assembly so the top and bottom are secure together. Then use a file to open up the ends.

I haven't had an opportunity to turn too many laps with my first Policar - but with now having the JPS added to the fleet, these tuning tips will definitely come in handy!
:handgestures-thumbup:

Ignore.

Glad it helped a little. On all three cars, the removing of the front axle and securing the top and bottom, then enlarging the axle openings is simply mandatory. Without doing it, the axle will rub/bind on the assembly. It's an easy fix though.

picture borrowed from Bruce's post,

Finally got into this beaut of a slot car today, with plans to do this mod myself. After piddling around, I found that by using a smaller gauge wire (yellow from SCC) I could simply cross the wires behind the motor pod screw boss rather than under the axle and the problem was solved. Also when looking at the design, I found that with the brass screw shown here in the rear of the car actually ties the floating pod to the body, and completely eliminates any float at all. So sinse it was already apart, I clipped the ends off the headers just so they stop right at the axle. Then did the same with the exhaust side of the pipes, and glued the exhaust into the body. Now it`s much easier to disassemble and assemble, and the pod floats freely. There really isn`t a need for the brass screw as far as holding anything other that the exhaust that I can see. There are still 4 screws holding the chassis to the body. It is a great runner, especially with the PGs you sent home with me H !

Great report Mark. I agree, that rear screw doesn't do much. Glad the new shoes worked out too.