Page 1 of 1

Classic 36D bushing

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 4:57 pm
by oz10k
Got any suggestion for how to re-install the can-end bushing that came out with the armature when I was taking the motor apart for cleaning?

Thanks,
Ron

Re: Classic 36D bushing

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 5:47 pm
by chappyman66
Hi Ron,
You can normally solder the bushing to the can. You might have to strip some orange paint first. There are articles about using the armature to keep everything aligned so it will run.

The other option may be JB weld, but I prefer soldering when possible.

Re: Classic 36D bushing

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 8:20 pm
by oz10k
Thanks.

I'm starting to think I could open-up the tines and slip the bushing back in, then bend the tines back as much as possible. Then spread some epoxy around the tines/bushing, and put it all back together to get the alignment right.

I can't quite see how to solder it while using anything for alignment (just not enough room). I'll start hunting for an article.

Re: Classic 36D bushing

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 10:53 pm
by gascarnut
The epoxy process you describe is your best bet, soldering is not going to be easy.

Re: Classic 36D bushing

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 7:08 am
by Kemtronracer
I used to use a nail to position the bushing in place. The nail head holds the bushing while you pull the nail to keep some pressure on it. Then use a small screwdriver to pull the tines out of the way in order to slip the bushing in place. This works best with the magnets removed.

To solder the bushing in is a bit tricky, but can be done. You would need a piece of solder bent into a ring just large enough to fit around the bushing and apply some flux to the tines and bushing. Assemble the can and endbell with an old armature to keep the bushing straight. Then hit the brass housing with a mini torch from the outside until the solder melts.

Re: Classic 36D bushing

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 10:51 am
by oz10k
Success! I had a dead motor, now it's running very nicely! :text-thankyouyellow:

The simple suggestion of using a nail was very helpful. After I got the bushing back in place, the nail helped me rotate the bushing so that I could bend-back the tines almost flat. By the time I got to the last tine it was holding the bushing pretty tight. After having cleaned everything the armature rotates freely, so I'm going to hold-off on the epoxy.

I appreciate the instructions for soldering, that's a clever method that I never would have though of! When that's done successfully I'm sure it is better than epoxy. But it's good to know your limitations, and I'm pretty sure I've got a better chance of success with epoxy. :D

Ron

Re: Classic 36D bushing

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 7:19 pm
by RichD
First drill out the can using a drill bit that is a little larger in diameter than the bearing. Put layers of masking tape around the armature until it is a snug fit between the magnets. Remove some of the paint from the area around the bearing hole and place the bearing. Use a little acid flux and solder the bearing in place. Remove the armature and wash off all of the flux from the armature and the can.

Re: Classic 36D bushing

PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 2:07 pm
by oz10k
Thanks RichD, that level of work I can do!