Track tape for a roadcourse

[slothead]

My road course is routed, primed, and painted with flat gray latex paint. After clearing paint dribbles out of the slots and running a few laps with the battery powered test truck, it will be time to do the taping and get some power flowing.

My question is what tape to use? The copper tape I got years ago from a stained glass shop works great on my 'dirt' oval. In 7 years I've had no problems at all, not even with oxidation when it sits unused for a few weeks. But, while the copper tape blends in nicely with the dark brown surface of my oval, it will contrast with the gray surface of the road course. Is there a type of silver foil tape that is as good as the copper tape?

I know some folks swear by braid, but I'm done routing on this track and with the surface already painted, am going to use tape. Many of the 'asphalt' tracks I see on HRW used copper tape, is this because it's just easier to get or better? And, what's a good source for foil tapes?

Slothead

[HomeRacingWorld]

I would just stick with copper. Easy, reliable, and in your case the price is right.

[btaylor]

The copper does not stand out to bad on gray asphalt. Although, even this might be more contrast than you are looking for. not sure if silver would hide better?

[chappy]

There is an aluminum colored tape, I'm not sure if Venture tapes sell it or not, but I imagine a quick google search would reveal it.
If memory serves me aluminum wiring was a fad a number of years ago, so we know it conducts alright.
All my gray flat latex painted tracks and my friends are done in copper tape. I guess its what you want, or what you get used to.
Bob

[dreinecke]

Venture makes a silver colored tape. I've seen it on a course and it looks and works fine.

I have no issue with the copper and don't feel it detracts from the course in any way. I purchased my Venture tape from a local stained glass shop - I went thinner too and used Venture 3/16" 1mil copper tape. Works perfectly.

[slothead]

I hadn't explored cost differences between copper and silver tape till Harry mentioned it, but copper tape is less expensive. Then, taking a look at Bob's track made me realize if the scenery makes the track look real the tape used isn't a major factor. I really like how the terrain changes from barren on the right to hilly and green on the left front on the track. I've been thinking - tape, wiring and power, then racing, but I gotta start planning the scenery so the whole project comes together like the tracks you guys (and gals) have.

So I'm going to stick with copper tape and try to pick some more up on my home from work this afternoon to get started laying some down and figuring out power tap placements.

Thanks.

Slothead

[btaylor]

Another thing i had to plan was the placement of scenery and accessories. I did not want to block line of sight for racers, and i did not want to interfere with marshaling, So i used some bases for the trees so i could move them around till i found the best spot,then attached them in a more permanent manor. Somehow it all came together and made a great course in my opinion. I had a plan originally to get the basics done for racing and minimal scenery, then take a 1ft area at a time and detail that spot,then move on in a grid like fashion (old railroading trick) till it will be all done.(someday)
Bob

[RichD]

Venture tape is the stuff to use, 1/4 inch wide and 1.25 mil thick is popular. Do not take a chance with Brand X tape. Once in a while you could get some tape that does not stick properly either because the adhesive was defective or the tape was sitting on the shelf too long. It would not be a bad idea to paint some scrap MDF and lay down some tape to see how it sticks. Do not put tension on the tape as you lay it down, it will be likely to split later on.

[dreinecke]

...and using a tape laying tool is so easy a Caveman like me can do it. I did all three lanes at 80+ feet in no time flat.

[slothead]

Where can I get a tape laying tool, or is it something there's a thread on making yourself? I made a quick and dirty holder for the tape on my oval, but it was just to keep the roll in one place as I applied the tape rather than anything to burnish or align the tape as I went.

Slothead

[chappyman66]

Two things:
1. The tape laying tool isn't that tough to make....go for it.

2. Unless it's a silver coated tape, the silvery tape is probably aluminum. It's not a problem with conductivity, but you have to keep aluminum properties in mind. The biggest issue is metallic incompatibility between aluminum and copper - eventually running copper braid on aluminum tape will cause some build up that inhibits the current. The previously mentioned aluminum wiring has the same problem, and there is in fact a paste that is applied to avoid this corrosion/incompatibility because it can lead to fires in house wiring (just slow or dead cars on the track though).

My advice - stick with the copper tape.

[dreinecke]

Good point on the aluminum issue. Hadn't thought of that.

[RichD]

I believe that the silver colored tape is actually nickel plated copper. Silver plating would be expensive and silver reacts with any sulfur that might be hanging around and turns black. Aluminum tape is much more fragile than copper tape and can oxidize.

[btaylor]

Back in the early 80's, i had a routed track that i used some of the Silver metal Duct tape on, it worked and i never noticed any discoloration on it, but it was used very frequently,and i also had to cut the roll width down from two inches to 1/4"
It stuck very well to the painted surface, but i dont think it was worth the trouble of cutting cutting it versus the price of copper,and ease of application.
Bob

[slothead]

I'm hoping to get the final section cuts done and finish work on the elevation supports this week so I can build a taping tool Saturday morning and get started on that. I'm going to see if I can design a tool that holds 2 rolls of copper tape and do both rails for a lane at the same time. I'm not trying to rush it, but some parts of the track will be a stretch to get to and if I can lessen the time I have to do that the better off my back will be. We'll see if that's possible or not.

I looked through a bin of wiring stuff I have left over from my oval and have enough terminal blocks for that power relay points I want to have at each corner of the table. The plan is to run main lines from the controller stations to the 4 power relay blocks, then have runners going to each of the 10 power taps (jumpers) around the track. It may be overkill but I'm thinking of having a power tap at the copper rails every 6 feet or so. This way cars should get continuous power all around the track even if there was a break in the tape. I'm going to use a 90 watt Lionel AC transformer to duplicate Dave's PDR setup with diodes on the controllers. I'll check what the RMS site recommends for the wire gauge, because all I have now is spools of bell wire and some 18 gauge speaker wire. What you you folks used?

With luck I might have an actual slot car making laps by Sunday night.

Slothead