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DocDoom, The Mr Trax system just buts together and the clips hold it tightly. The ends of the braid for each lane wrap around and under the end, once the clips are pulled tight the 2 braids tightly pressed together and it all works fine, no connecting of the loose braid ends. Not sure where he gets the table legs from but I think they are supplied with the system

It should be kept in mind in this discussion, that really elaborate road tracks usually have great (if delicate) scenery. If you want to be able to disassemble the track, better make the breaks "scenery friendly".

As mentioned, the oval I described above was built as a test track since it was my first attempt at a wood track. I expected to take in down within a few months and replace it with a larger track using the same sectional design. Scenery was not even in my thoughts when I built it. But, it was so much fun and got so much use my attention turned to building dirt modifieds and street stocks to race on it, then a few years later my grandson and I added scenery so it truly resembles a local short track complete with lights for racing.

The fencing is the culprit when it comes to no longer being able to be taken apart as designed. But then, after nearly 15 years of continuous use it's my version of a landmark historical site and there are no plans to do anything with it except race on it in my lifetime.

As mentioned, the oval I described above was built as a test track since it was my first attempt at a wood track. I expected to take in down within a few months and replace it with a larger track using the same sectional design. Scenery was not even in my thoughts when I built it. But, it was so much fun and got so much use my attention turned to building dirt modifieds and street stocks to race on it, then a few years later my grandson and I added scenery so it truly resembles a local short track complete with lights for racing.

The fencing is the culprit when it comes to no longer being able to be taken apart as designed. But then, after nearly 15 years of continuous use it's my version of a landmark historical site and there are no plans to do anything with it except race on it in my lifetime.

I was aked by Joe about the progress of my track.... Zak's Glen. Well all is good. We race at my house every other Tuesday here in the Buffalo area. On the opposite Tuesdays we race at another track in the area. We run no mag slot.it's ...Can-Am, C-Class, and LMP.
Joe asked for a picture of the track, which I have, I just need to know how to upload a picure. TY

Joining, in my opinion, is best done with full scab boards for long term racing surface stability, unless the track is full box construction.
You can get cabinet bolts and use boards underneath to pull everything together, but screwing it all down is the best. Even to take it apart....rejoin the same way.

So the wiring is pretty easy. As Slothead mentioned, you can do the banana plugs and color code them per lane. The other option is a 3 or 4 up male/female connector where you wire both sides and then just plug them in. I did that on my garage track (a 3 lane track on 2 4x8 sheets) and it worked perfectly with copper tape. Put the tongue/groove joints together, clamp it tight, then plug in the two connector pairs and the track was ready. Easy peasy.

See this story on building a portable modular track: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzLR42 ... sp=sharing
The track uses braid that is stuck down with contact cement, we have since switched over to using 3M double sided tape.