The Showdown Garage - Q&A - Builds

[strangebrew]

................................Great Start.....................................

[BARC 1]

[TuscoTodd]

It is a '55. :)
(and a darn sharp looking one wearing that red and white themed BARC Racing livery! :handgestures-thumbup: )

For reference...

1955


1956

[Retro Racer 44]

Also the taillights on the 55 fill the opening whereas the 56 has chrome filling the opening with round taillights in the middle. The 57 was the one with the big vertical fins. My first car was a 59 with the full width horizontal fins that dropped to a V in the middle.

That will be one super car Dan, I suggest you follow Harry's Stinker chassis build thread to put the guts into it.

Cheers,

Keith

[Wobble]

That is one handsome 55 Barc and with #22 on it's flanks it's even better. 55 and 22 are my favourite nos.

[HomeRacingWorld]

You can use any guide as the slot is deep enough (about 10 MM) to accept any aftermarket guide.

I have been using Sloting Plus Deep Wood guides and still have room. We run 1/24 with assorted guides like Parma/Jet/H&R etc, as well.



Photo for reference.

[BARC 1]

[BARC 1]

[HomeRacingWorld]

Something I feel I should relay about guides. I had to clean a couple last year due to sharp flash molding edges. Not a big deal, easily done in a few seconds using a good old Emory board. BUT just a reminder...

Please take the time to check the blade edges. Use some 600 grit sandpaper or Emory board and lightly sand on the edges of the blade. Also sand the leading edge to a slight bevel.

Guides such as the Sloting Plus, Slot.it, and older Parma and Commercial guides sometimes need some flashing removed. Especially guides such as the Sloting Plus that are designed to be trimmed to suit your track slot. Without it, the sharp edges of the guide can damage some track slots/tape/braid upon deslotting.

This is pretty much common knowledge, just passing it on.

[padirtfan]

[HomeRacingWorld]

Yes sir. Common sense and research is the guide. If you are going to model say...that car, then I am pretty sure you will model it as close to scale as you can. You know your stuff when it comes to them.

So "anything goes" is almost correct. If someone sends a low rider in 1/43rd scale, well...just accept all will know :)

It's why I did not go into detail as I felt anyone approaching this class would follow those parameters.

I look forward in your entry. You can sure build them.

[padirtfan]

Ok, great. I'm looking forward to my first proxy entry. This is a very tough crowd skill wise so I hope I'm up to it.....

[strangebrew]

[padirtfan]

I always found the IMCA approach interesting as opposed the east coast. They always maintained a stock front clip and stock engine placement, the east coast was always more radical towards innovation. The result was here they priced the modifieds, as an affordable way to race, out of existence. Fields went from 60 cars to 20. The IMCA has managed to continue to thrive with their approach. I'd love to see someone run IMCA type mods here.

[strangebrew]

The Midwest mods from the 70'/80's above were not IMCA. Each one was garage built, most with front straight axle, quick change rears.
The frames had to be 2x4 or 2x3. There were no two cars alike. (Pretty much like our brass scratchbuilds). Each track had
their own local sanctioning club. Harry's & my track had a cubic inch limit, 10" engine setback,105" wheelbase & minimum weight.
Allied Auto Racing, down the road was similar with a 12" setback, no minimum weight, 99" wheelbase & unlimited engine size.
Any make or size tire could be run. All required one carb. All crash damage had to be repaired, Could only be primer one night.
There were big block Chevys, Fords, Hemis & even a Ford Cammer or two at Allied. Cars were leaf springs, coil overs, cantilevers,
mono-leafs, torsion bar & combinations of each. Innovation was KING in those days. So it was a long way from IMCA.
Late model racing took over from the unlimited modifieds & now they only run as a vintage club class on selected nights.