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I hear you sir. I can't remember exactly what mold I used but I can send you some to cast.

But the secret is? This mold isn't perfect either. The Smooth On resin is flexible enough that I just use a needle nose pliers and bend/twist them to fit the steering wheel I'm using. I shape them around the wheel...THEN a quick flicker of flame from the lighter to heat them. When they cool they are hardened and stay in that shape.

I am making another as well using the Monogram NASCAR driver.



The arms/seams are drying and will send one or two of these as well,


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Quick trip to paint booth for the old anti glare black hood treatment.




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wow, that is looking sweet, the blackout hood did it for me

I think the Ford belongs at the "Malt Shop" instead of the track. :D
Nice ride! :clap:

I like ice cream.

I'll make it look right on the first lap :)

Well thank you very much sir...and that is one sweet a$$ looking ride!! :auto-driving: :auto-driving:

Burly. I can't quite tell- is the red primer or paint? Good color in either case.

Thanks.

It's paint. Duplicolor Dark Toreador Red. I color sanded (wet) it with 2000.

In your post about the Gofer number decals the car has white side panels. Another car, or did you change your mind about the paint?

Changed my mind. Just decided to go one full color. Was going to try and match a theme by a Pearson car that inspired this build, but I'll do that car later.

Just made it simple.

Well dang if that's not the bee's knees! Nice work! Love the color too.

Thanks Doc.

So I thought I would share a process of decal sealing and creating a very smooth final surface for clearing.

After the decals are applied, I use DUPLICOLOR clear and give the car 3 LIGHT COATS to seal the edges of the decals. I spray a "dust coat" and let it dry for 15 minutes. Then repeat. This helps prevent any reaction to the decals (wrinkling) that hotter clear lacquer can cause. Once the final coat is dry I WET SAND carefully over the entire car with 2000 grit sandpaper. This also builds up clear around the edges of the decals and helps "hide" them a little.



Always use 2000 or finer. And don't use much pressure. Just light pressure. You are creating a very smooth surface for the acrylic top coat (AKA Future).

When you are finished, you can literally run your finger over the decals and not even feel that they are there.



You notice how dull it appears. That's good, that is what you are after.



Now you are ready for the final clear. I always use Pledge Floor Care (FUTURE). Using a larger brush, I usually apply 2 coats. Just be patient and allow the first coat to dry. Usually 20 to 30 minutes.







The end results are pretty nice IMHO. You end up with a very smooth and clean finish.

The Duplicolor dust technique adds a good layer of protection and allows you to sand lightly. Then the two coats of Pledge as a finish. We race pretty hard down here and so far the decals hold up over time very well.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Dave!

So here is how I make glass.



These innocent looking items make for some very nice glass. The preformed curves make it very easy to match almost any design you need. I used one of the light bulb blister packs for this car.



A simple method of test fitting and cutting. Just leave a little overhang for gluing.



In the photo above you see a new "UV Pen". One of those as seen on TV items but in this case it actually works...and works perfectly for this. Very easy to get the applicator in small spaces and the adhesive will not "craze or haze" the glass. Not to mention it is a very strong bond that will last.

Just a few small beads and then ZAP with the light.



Almost done...stay tuned. And Btaylor, sit down please. No need for the standing ovation ok? :D