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i wanted the printed chassis as a fast to assembly backup for the scratchbuilt chassis. seem my measurement are leaking accuracy ...

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Making rings to be placed between the chassis parts instead of the hard printed ones. First i used silicone material used for baking. the rings are now made out of latex - much softer. Anxious to try these out on the track!

the centering from slot.it is made for 2mm motor axles and much too big for 1/43rd.
trimming the half off and sanding down the flange, with the dremel in the vise.

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much better now ...

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preparing the printed wheels - the previous printed wheels were quite fine in the tolerance. This time the axles hole have been to tight, due to the printing process. drilled out by hand, starting with 2mm, than 2.1. pushing the 2.2mm drill bit through without turning it. When it was through for the whole length i started to turn the drill bit. this gives a nice hole.
On my first try, I started turning the drill bit from the start. In this way, i got an angled axle hole and had to throw away the rim. Pushing the drill bit through and starting to turn it afterwards gives very good results, so.

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As usual there are much more bodies and projects lying around than doable in one life...
I checked some boxes recently and found some bodies I had bought years ago, among them this Ford ( ? ).

Being a good basis for various Hot Rods, I cut it into pieces and prepared it for casting.
So one gets a variety of possible versions by casting different parts.

Adding different motors extends it.

Meanwhile the parts are filled and sanded and wait for being cast.

Using selfmade razor blade saws reduces the loss of material to an insignificant minimum.

















Roland

very nice cutting with an interesting tool, Roland!
body from ElectraFlying or did it come from Mickey?
anyway - nice start on the universal rod! :D
any more details on the saw?

As a traditional Hotrod enthusiast, I watch this with great interest Roland! Please let me know when you have some available for sale.

Regards, Lloyd.

I just recently built a modifed stocker in 132 so seeing this Rod with the exposed mill is great to see, as I was thinking of doing some modified stockers in 143. I will be very interested in what you build Roland. Please post progress shots as they become available

Cheers


Dan

No problem, but only next year. On Sunday we will go on holiday for a week.

So to all who read here - a merry Christmas, and my best wishes to you and your families for 2017 !

Rolad

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what´s the best way to hide the printed spokes? i think with flat black paint from Revell.

fitting in the windows when they do not fit 100% - not a fun job.

and sooooo many possibilities to finish the Mini chassis. which axles (2.2 or 2.38), which wheels (aluminium or printed) and finally which gearing to choose - much things to try out ....

Nice work as always Peter

Just a heads up to everyone in 143. HRW is going to have a scratch building competition thread hosted in the Martin Stanley scratch building section. This is open to all scales and is meant to showcase materials and techniques used in different scales. I think it is a great idea as I am currently building in 143 and 132. I might take this opportunity to build a car and chassis in 1/24 and HO.

I think this would be a great way to show slotters in other scales what is going on in 1/43, sometimes I think we compartmentize ourselves, and this would be a good place for us all to contribute as just slot car enthusiasts regardless of scale.

The intent of the thread is to teach and learn from others. Having all the scales represented means varying skills and techniques can be shared, there may be something that is being done in one scale would be a good crossover skill to be used in another.

Cheers

Dan

Thanks Dan, I will look out for it.

Regards, Lloyd.

had an idea how to shorten the pinion today: put pinion on drill bit (on flat surface part), put drill bit in battery powered drill, use dremel to shorten. worked great.

the other thing today was to change to gearing in the MCA Centenaire with the PDFF chassis. from standard go! to 8/24. had to shorten the centering ring as this one is for a 2mm motor axle in the outer diameter is way to big. so, cut away the 2nd part and file down the diameter. Voila, it works for 1/43 now :)

Played at being a Chrysler engineer yesterday. :lol:


Now all I need is someone to cast it for me. :oops:

Randy

Where did that lovely black gear come from Peter?

Regards, Lloyd.

from CarGo in Germany. it is a mb slot 24 tooth crown for 2.38mm axle.
but rhe slot.it 23 tooth is a better choice, runs smoother