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Searching through the oval forum I think I am going to pull the trigger and build a bullring oval. My thoughts are building a four by eight foot bullring. I want to run sprint cars on this track at 1/24 and 1/32. I need feedback on this particular size track along with lane spacing and your thoughts on how many lanes, radius?
I kinda have a idea of the above but would like your thoughts.
I am limited on space and this is the reason for this size. I want to braid the track instead of the copper tape, just my preference. I will need help with wiring the track as well. I am not too sure on using the tape method on the braid so I am leaning towards the contact cement. But first things first, the track.

So looking forward to the feedback,

Thanks,
Slotpup

welcome to the forum! there are alot of oval racers here! stay tuned they will pipe up soon :)

That sounds like a fun one Slotpup! Cant go wrong with any size oval. the size your building would be great for some Midget racers, short track heroes, Modified's, you name it! All would be great.
You thinkin asphalt or dirt? Cant wait to see the progress! keep us posted, and welcome aboard, I have an oval,so if i can be of any help, let me know.

Bob

One Wild portable Bullring.. Crazy sideways action in one small footprint…



also makes a great little storage unit..

Wood

Just depends on how you like or want your models. On a small bullring, I never needed over voltage (over 12). The speeds at 12 or under are more than enough on a smaller footprint.

I would go just 3 lanes actually. At 4 feet you don't want that inner lane that tight, and when running 1/24 you need room to drift out...especially with open wheel sprints.

Slot car Corner braid comes adhesive backed. No more gloo. It holds perfectly.

Wow, Thanks for the warm welcome and the links and encouragement. Once the holidays are through I will start the planning of the track. I have used some scratch paper with a very crude drawing, kinda messing around though. It's going to be a learning process and experience. Far as the sprint cars go, I think these cars are the coolest. I have watched several videos with them running and they really emulate the real 1 to 1 sprints.

Any additional info anyone would like to share i would appreciate the feedback.

Slotpup

Personnaly, I'm using a 8amp, 13.8volt power supply used for lab and CB radio. Fuse protected, stable, and sturdy (metal housing). More than enough juice for 4 lanes, at least the kind of stock cars (any scale up to 1/32) I run. I will also probably add a sturdy rotary switch with 12 positions, to adjust voltage with diodes (sturdy 8A dr suppliodes), but it's just because I want to run 7volt midgets, or limit power for 1/43 cars.

Not saying that it's as good as Harry's one, but if budget is limited, CB radio 13volt power supply option can bring you a more than decent power supply, and if you run only one style of cars, you'll probably not need adjustable voltage (again, honestly I will add an adjustable knob assembly only for very specialized cars, but the stock power is good for any 1/32 brand car I'm using on my oval).

My oval is 4' x 14' and has 2 lanes for 1/32 scale 'dirt' racing. It's about 8 years old and has a zillion laps on from racing solo and with my grandson. Because I custom built my dirt modified cars using a 3 1/4" wheelbase and 2 5/8" rear track (width at the rear tires) I went with 3 1/2" lane spacing on the straights and 4" in the center of the turns. I suggest keeping the lane spacing constant but don't skimp on it with open wheel or 1/24 scale cars - 3 1/2" would be a minimum.

Once you know your table size and lane spacing everything else is already determined. I have a 5" outside gutter (distance from the center of the outside lane to the retaining wall or fence which might even be tight for 1/24 scale cars.

For a 48" wide track subtract a half inch on each side for mounting the outer wall, which will have a radius of 23.5" Move in 5" for the outside gutter and the outside lane will have a radius of 18.5". Move in 3.5" for the lane spacing and the middle lane will have a radius of 15". Move in another 3.5" and the inside lane will have a radius of 11.5". To locate the points of origin for the radii at each end draw a center line that divides the 4' x 8' surface into 2' x 8' sections, then measure in 24" from each end. Routing the corners will be easy if you use a router base like in Harry's build that pivots around these points.

This will be quite a bullring with 4' straights between the corners. But, if it's made on a single sheet of MDF it will be very smooth and easy to lay the braid and wire up. If you can add a little banking like Harry did it will be super fast too if the surface has good traction.

Slothead

Nice looking track there Brew,.....I'm with Harry that power supply is what i have and the adjustable voltage from 6-15 Volt range is perfect for these home tracks....I had a 6 volt-12 volt batery charger hooked up to my tracks years ago also ...but this Pyramid supply is a must.....

After running extended laps with the battery charger power, do your motors run hot? Or have you burnt up any motors?? The reason I ask is that battery chargers are notorious for providing "dirty" DC, unregulated, with possible AC trickle.

TOJ

Nope. Have not damaged a motor since I built the track 7 or 8 years ago.
I have been running mostly Deathstar & other 16D type motors until
Recently. I have been running HR motors, Falcons & now Pirhanas.
The Deathstars get a little warm, but it takes a couple hundred laps.
None of the lower powered motors get warm at all.
I use 35 year old resistor controllers with no problems either.
Could be luck, but this is the 2nd charger ON the track.
The 1st one is in my shop performing the function it was designed for.

Good to know....could be one of those "old wives tales". Where are you in southern Illinois? I went to college in Lebanon, mom was from St. Jacob, dad from Centralia.

TOJ