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...and probably some other things.

I didn't want to detract even more from "Fitzy"s thread, so I thought I'd start my own.

Now that I've had a chance to REALLY look this over, I realize that the rear wheel wells have been slightly enlarged: the little "lip" that runs along the upper edge is gone. The good news is that it was done really well, so it doesn't look bad, but to put original size tires on that back axle I think would look odd, so I'm committed to larger, "slick" type tires. I have ordered a couple of different sets from Paul Gage, and am confident I can get something on there that will look good and perform well. It came with an extra set of tires, the same size as the ones on the front axle. (I suspect they were originally on the rear axle.) They have hardened over time. Is there a way to soften these up so they can be used?

I wedged a bit of weight inside the "box" that the front mounting post is molded to, and this has helped to keep the front end down, so at least the front wheels now contact the track and actually turn. I'm not sure if I need to add weight to the tail, as it runs pretty well right now. It's (pretty much) capable of keeping up with my Carrera Jag...

All (3) mounting posts were split, some worse than others. I reinforced them with "Super Glue", but I'm thinking I may want to try something else that has a little "give" to it. As it is, all 3 hold the screws snugly.

Is there a source for motor brushes for these? I have yet to find any specific replacements on the 'web.

When I signed on here I think I warned you all that I would be asking a lot of annoying questions... :)

Mark in Oregon

Hi Mark, You can use some Evergreen styrene tubing to reinforce the body posts.........find a diameter that just slips over the existing post, cut a piece, and glue it on over the existing post. You can also use aluminum/brass tubing done the same way.

There are some K&B Challenger motor brushes (identical to Aurora) on Epay at the moment..........the seller is a quality guy.
Why do you think you need new motor brushes??.....the brushes in these things tended to last eons......maybe a good cleaning is in order first.

You can try giving the front tires a good scrub with an old toothbrush/dish liquid......this often is all that is needed to remove the years of built up crud.....they don't need to grip, in fact, no grip is better.
If they split, or are split,.....that is another matter.........Paul Gage, Ortmann, and others make suitable replacement fronts.

Cheers
Chris Walker

Update:

I bought a "spool" of fishing lead: put 14 grams in the chassis to help keep the front end down. Also wedged another 5 gms behind the rear mounting posts.

It handles much better now; do you think 19 grams of added weight is safe for this motor? I used to weigh the heck out of my locomotives (regardless of scale) for added traction and never had any issues, but this is a different thing...I think. :)

Mark in Oregon

Hi Mark,
The Challenger will handle the weight....that motor is found in some 1/24 cars too (I have the Cobra coupe). Better rear tires and softer braid should let you lose some of the lead - you will see better acceleration although nothing like the modern cars.

Doesn't weight behind the rear wheels make the rear axle a pivot point for transferring added lift to the front of the car? I always thought doing that would work towards lifting the guide out of the slot under acceleration.

But, since you've added 14 grams of weight to the front of the car any lift is probably negligible.

Another question: :)

I have purchased online a set of brushes for this; in the meantime, are the brush covers just a "tube-type" affair that pulls straight off?

I don't have any documentation for this, and I certainly don't want to muck something up! :?

Mark in (wet today) Oregon

Challenger brush and spring replacement...

Mark, If you did not get new brush springs, give the old ones a bit of a gentle stretch.....they tend to compress over time.
Stretch them by 10/15/%.....that should do the trick.

As well, while you have the motor apart, give the comm. a good clean,.... a good old ink eraser is excellent, or, use some of your contact cleaner

Pull the axle, clean it and the bushing cups, reassemble and lightly re oil.

Cheers
Chris Walker

This type of motor is quite different (to me anyway) from the "usual" inline or can types...

Now that I can see how this thing was assembled, I will do all that; thanks Chris.

Mark (still) in Oregon

Two additional section scans from K&B 1/32 scale slot car kit instructions with info on the "motor mounting pins". First is a section on initial chassis assembly, and the second explains the additional step for their removal from an assembled running chassis to service the motor.

Wow thank you, that's awesome.

This second set of scans makes it much clearer to me how this must be done; I really appreciate all the assistance.

Having said that, please don't be surprised if I come back at some point in the near future with yet more questions! ;)

Mark in Oregon

EDIT: As I was printing these out, I noticed (3) things:

First scan: on step 10, last sentence: misspelling of the word "shoe"; it says "hoe".

Second scan: there is no longer a "retaining clip" for the axle: My example does not have one, so this makes sense. Also, the price of the gear puller has gone from .98 (in the scan sent yesterday) to $1.00... :D