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I'll show you all about it this afternoon when you get here.

By the way, the alcohol dunk and spin is for after the water, to absorb all the water and dry quickly.

I only mention it because there seems to be a lot of short cuts about this as it goes around. Like having a pinion on the motor makes a huge difference in how much time is involved, and water is much denser than alcohol, so it does all the work much faster and safer (heat-wise), than alcohol alone. These details matter a lot to people who haven't yet tried the technique out. I try to demonstrate in person when I get people here at my place, but that hasn't been possible for a long time. So, I try to say something anytime it comes up. Its the same with polishing gears in or trimming Fly motor shafts off the tire, etc.

Think of it as wet sanding your brushes.

But sounds like you are getting a first hand look at this from a "seasoned" veteran. heheh...sorry, I like that too much :)

I'll add a couple things. If you use water for break-in, spray out the motor afterwards with compressed air from a compressor or use a can of compressed air. Oil motor & squirt a bit of naptha on the comm end while running on 4V for about 15 seconds. The naptha removes any remaining water.

Some use Shellite/Fuellite/Zippo fluid instead of water or Isoprop. But again, ensure complete submersion of motor before applying power.

If using water, deionized/distilled water is the go. It's non-conductive. You can even drive slot cars through it. :)

All quite right. I use an industrial electric motor commutator cleaner spray after the alcohol drying and a blast of 120psi to spin the motor dry inside. Then a drop of oil on the bearings, and away we go.

By the way, all water is non-conductive except on the surface.

I use distilled water and then flood it afterwards with contact cleaner, dry that out and then apply some CRC 2-26 and a drop of oil at each end. I don't use tap water - especially Adelaide tap water! - as it is full of minerals that would get in the motor.

A friend of mine uses methylated spirits.

I use CRC 2-26 on my table saw. Its great stuff.

What does this breakin method do for the motor, i have just added a bit of oil here and there and right to
the track for some hard racing.

The water break in just speeds up the break in process by allowing the brushes to conform to the shape of the Comm quickly and without heat build up. Some say it increases the top end of the motor as well. One word of caution- do not try it on slimcan motors. They have very fragile brushes that will quickly become ruined when running underwater.

I thought the water bath part was just a quick dunk at the end to flush out the brush particles that came off during the break-in?

Look here: http://cincyslotrods.yuku.com/topic/532 ... PG-n_JyHTo

I remember that! That was hilarious. Was that last year or the year before? I remember thinking that it was doubly funny that something so full of engineering could be so funny. Jethro is a very patient, good natured chap, I must say. Good guy to know for info, too, of course.

Feb of 2010