Home Racing World

Good information Marty, thanks for sharing.

I use 60/40 solder as well.

I do use a torch. Just as you must learn to use and care for an iron, same applies to the torch.

I use my "pans" in reverse for mounting to a plate inside the car. Last thing I want to do is drill holes into my bodies and have unattractive pins showing. I have thought of using the wire across the tops of my rails as you show here. Just need a trip to the local hardware store :)

I like a torch, because I can pin the complete chassis parts/pieces in place, and hit every point on it in one swoop and done. If it gets the metal soft, it does not effect what I do as far as running on my home track. Same here on the solder selection, I also try to get the guide as far forward of axle center line as possible, but most important to me is the guide is not staring me in the face when I look at the car. All my chassis are solid, any floating is between the body and chassis ,very little..and it works great for my home track.
Mark:

Im a torch man here, adjust the old razor jig, set the wheel height, clamp it down and let the solder flow :music-rockout:

Great info and pics!
Thanks for sharing!

I have been using a 70's vintage, 100/140 watt Weller unit, paste flux and 60/40 solder for my builds.

I am going to dip a toe and try both a loaner Hakko adjustable temp iron and some Lucky Bob's acid flux this weekend though. :)

So I have purchased my Hakko FX888D station, and picked up various brass based on what I have seen here on the site.
I was looking today on what solder to use and I see in this post my question was answered, awesome!

I am wondering for those soldering iron folks, what does the Solder Flux do and which type do I need? Or do I even need it if I am using 60/40 rosin core?

Man, I can read stuff like this for days. Probably won't do it, but love to hear about it allz

Thanks for moving this subject Marty. I'm sure more guys want to learn to do those neat jobs than just me!

I guess I need to start with smaller solder. I usually sand my work and clean with thinner before soldering. I am going to try and find a local source for liquid flux (acid). I tried NAPA for Radiator tinning fluid, but they couldn't find it. I assume the guy that uses it bought it years ago and it has been discontinued. I'm sure plumbers have something equivalent, I saw Stabrite on Ebay, so I know it is around.

I have a knock off import iron that is 80 watts and works pretty good. I solder in spurts and don't let it set there and cook. I use a wire brush on the tip. I think I am close to getting neater results and th smaller solder may help a bunch. I try to heat the metal and let it pull the solder in. Sometimes the bulk of metal involved is a lot for the iron and the torch heats it up quick.

I appreciate the tips and maybe some of this will help a lot of us.

Matt

Lucky Bob's is good stuff. But if you don't want to mail order and have a Lowe's nearby, the flux they carry works great as well.



I use an old brush to apply where needed. Shotgun Dave uses this method as well and is where I learned it. These brushes are cheap and gives you pretty precise application.

Here is my preferred solder. 60/40.



I like the small diameter as well. But any type 60/40 will do.

Guys,

Remember that the diameter of the solder you are using does not help to control how much ends up on the frame if you carry the solder to the chassis on the iron.

What you want to practice is to heat the joint enough that the brass melts the solder, then you have a better chance of controlling how much solder is applied. Lots of flux helps with this, especially liquid flux, as it provides better thermal contact between the iron and the work.

There are times when you iwll need to carry the solder on the iron, like when you need just to tack something in place. That's OK, but be careful how much solder you use, it is surprising how little is needed t tack something when the parts fit closely.

And that's something else to consider - the better the fit between your brass (and wire) pieces, the stronger the frame with less solder. You really don't want to be trying to fill mis-fitting gaps with solder, that's just weight and it looks messy.

In one of the other threads, Harry said something about a good set of files - very sound advice.

Super glad this thread started. I was going to ask a bunch of questions and turns out many are already answered. Great idea gang!


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Lucky Bob's liquid flux is sold at many commercial raceways, if you should have one in your area. Another good acid flux, in addition to those mentioned above, is Oatey's #11 Liquid Flux. Check the plumbing department at home centers & hardware stores. Generally speaking, if you're soldering steel or iron, you need to use an acid flux. If you're soldering brass to brass or copper, plumber's paste flux & liquid rosin flux both work well. Acid flux can be used on brass & copper too.

When you use liquid flux, do you still pre-clean your work?

I do. Not sure about others. Flux helps flow so much easier.