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Took the plunge today and picked up a small wire and brass collection. I am going to put metal chassis under my superjet nascars
http://homeracingworld.us/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=12792. What i was wondering. Is there a preferred solder? Also what is an effective and accurate way to cut 1/32" brass strips

Thanks
Randy

I like 60/40 solder. You can use a miter box, but I just cut with a DREMEL a little long and then file to accurate length.

I like silver solder and do most of my brass plate cutting on my band saw.

Butch

60/40 is all you need and very common on the cutting like Harry said dremel off a little more than you need and clean it up to the size you wan't but I use the power file method (belt sander) If you wan't accuracy like two side pans turning out the same size tac solder them together and size them as one. When taken apart they will be mirror images of each other :twocents-mytwocents:

I have used both silver solder (96/4 tin/silver stay-brite) and conventional 60/40 tin/lead solder and I find the 60/40 to be fine for my applications. While it doesn't have as high of strength as the stay-brite, I have never had a joint on one of my builds fail.
A couple nice things about the 60/40 is that it melts at a bit lower temp (good if you have a lower wattage iron) and it is less expensive to purchase.

Welcome to the addictive world of brass chassis building! :D

Thanks guys, that should get me started. Dave I meant cutting pieces off of brass strips. As for cutting brass into strips :scared-eek: :lol: While I'm at it, what is the purpose of a rattle pan?

Randy

I believe the purpose of a rattle pan is to help dampen the vibrations in the chassis from all the bumps and imperfections in the track. It basically works the same as hinged body pans or mounting the body loose.

Randy, if you don't have a Dremel, the cheapest way to cut those strips & brass tubing is to use a miter box like Pappy mentioned & a razor saw. All the solders mentioned will work. My personal preference is 63/37. It melts at a lower temperature & is slightly stronger than the commonly used 60/40, which works fine too. The Stay Brite 4% silver solder is stronger still, but leaves your chassis joints stiff. You might have to run a chassis built with Stay Brite silver solder several times before it gets it gets it's normal flex back. Another good chassis building solder is Radio Shack 2% Silver Bearing solder. It's stronger than 63/37 & 60/40, but not as strong as Stay Brite. It doesn't seem to stiffen your chassis joints either. It'll be easiest to find 60/40 or 63/37 solder.

Anyone wanting to make long straight cuts with a Dremel & cutoff disk, use the non-tooth edge of a bi-metal hacksaw blade as a ruler & run your disk along it. Being hardened metal, the hacksaw blade is not easily cut by the disk.

Are you guys using liquid flux and solid core solder? I tried acid core, and it worked pretty well, but needs to be fully cleaned. I never wanted to try electronics solder, as I figured the rosin would be the worst mess in the world on a slot car chassis. (I have done enough electronics to know I hate cleaning that stuff off of boards) My thought is that the ideal setup would be liquid acid flux and solid solder. Am I over thinking it?

I've been using an old toothbrush or a SS wire brush, scouring powder, & water in a sink to clean brass/wire scratchbuilt chassis for years. I use both solid core & rosin core solders. I use acid flux for joints containing steel or iron, paste flux & liquid rosin flux for brass-to-brass joints. Spot cleanup can be done with lighter fluid on a rag. A baking soda & water solution with neutralize acid flux when that is needed. I've never found cleanup to be a big deal.:)

Wow! This is fantastic info. Thank you guys. Bill, do I understood correct that acid flux would be used on a brass to steel joint? Munter, thanks for the link to that nibbler that is one slick device. Cool Dave that's what I was hoping the rattle pan was for.

Thanks
Randy

Hi Randy;

I always used 50/50 solder that was lead/zinc, I thinc. :lol: :lol: :lol: I used the big roll I had since the 60s and had a real problem buying it again. Now I usually go to Canadian Tire and buy whatever they have. For any electrical work you want rosin core solder, and I use a 25 watt iron for that type only. For chassis, I use acid core that is about 1/16 inch thick with my 80w Weller iron. I've tried thinner stuff, but it bent out of the way when I used it so now only use it to tin the tip. The thicker type they sell for plumbers just puts too much solder down to look nice for this application. I have an old Xacto knife that I use to scrape any old solder off the tip when I am finished, or before as the iron is heating up.

I also use some old solder paste flux that I have also had since the 60s. (There were 44 years in there I didn't build slot cars and used my soldering tools very rarely) I would like to get some liquid flux that most of the guys in the US use, but I have yet to find it in Canada. Without the liquid flux, it is harder to solder piano wire, but with perseverance it can be done.

I use an Xacto saw to cut brass tubing, and an old fashioned hack saw for thicker brass strips. The thin stuff you can cut with shears, but a saw cut looks better. Try to resist the urge to bend to break the last of the cut as it then needs to be filed a lot more.

Happy scratch building,

Keith

Keith, check the plumbing departments of local hardware stores or home centers for Oatey's Liquid Soldering Flux. It's an acid flux that works well on several types of different metals, including chassis building, the same as Stay-Clean flux does. I got some Oatey's at the local Ace Hardware store. Amazon carries it too.

Hi Folks, Having read through this thread, it would appear that some/many of you are not using flux when soldering............while the type of solder can make a difference, flux (and the proper flux) will make a bigger difference, it will make the job much easier, the joint stronger,...and better looking!!

For the type of chassis/motors the majority of folks here are interested in building, a 60/40 solder is absolutely perfect.

As far as flux....mechanical joins (brass/brass. brass/wire etc.) are best done with the use of a liquid acid flux (Stay-Clean, Lucky Bobs', Oatey etc.). This flux will etch the metal, and help the solder to flow very smoothly and thinly, which lets it properly wick in between the pieces to be joined, creating a strong , neat joint.
Any joins made with acid flux will need to be cleaned with an old toothbrush and some abrasive cleanser (Ajax/Comet etc.) and water, after you have finished........also, clean your soldering surface, and any metal tools that may have come into contact with the flux........and.....do this when you have finished your soldering.....if you don't, you really won't like what you see the next morning :o :(

Electrical joins (motor leads etc.) should be done with a small bit of rosin paste flux...............DO NOT, use acid flux on electrical joins.

Cheers
Chris Walker