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What's the best way to fabricate and install new body posts on a 1/32nd slot car body?

I'm using a Slot.It HRS2 chassis underneath and Fly Porsche 911 RSR body and the stock body posts on the Fly body don't come anywhere near fitting the attachment points on the chassis. So, I need to fabricate both a front and a rear body post and attach them to the inside of the body. What's the best way to do this?

I'm concerned about getting the posts in the right position and about getting them to be the right height, so that I get a good placement of the body on the chassis. It is simply trial and error or are there some standard or short-cut techniques that work for this type of job? Thanks.

Audi1

HRS2 comes with a mounting system where you put tabs on the side of the body.

Otherwise you can use 2mm tubing and glue it in I usually put a collar of 4mm tubing around it - or wall plugs work as well

http://www.freewebs.com/coldpaw54/howto ... odytoa.htm

Thanks Dangermouse.

I'd use the side tab mounting system that comes with the HRS2 chassis, but with the Fly Porsche 911 RSR, the main body actually needs to side slightly above the chassis, since the front spoiler goes way down and that's the only mounting position that works with the wheel wells.

I'll try the 2.0mm styrene tubing and the 4.0mm collar sounds like a good way to get some additional strength into the post. Do you use the epoxy putty technique that John shows in the how-to that uses wall plugs, to attach the posts to the body or is there another way to do this?

Audi1

Here's another way to try, how we mount slot it chassis to other brand bodies, we use hot glue sticks cut down the right ride height, then hot glue them to the under side of the body, then we use the original slot it screws or what ever fits to fasten them down after drilling the hot glue post with the correct size bit. Have had no problems even in hard crashes with them coming apart.

Allan, here is another solution, similar to the above mention method. This is mounting a Munter resin Porsche 356 body. I just purchased a Munter Porsche 356 resin kit and will use the same method. The adjustable brass chassis design looks really nice, might have to make one of these too.

http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/porta ... hp?t=66807

Cheers, Thompson

Hi Thompson,

Good to hear form you! Thanks for the tube-within-a-tube alternative. The only downside that I can see to that method of attachment is that it doesn't seem that you can adjust much, if at all, for body float; although I guess if the tubes hold firmly together, then loosening the screw that attaches the 1/8" tubing to the chassis would give you what you need.

Allan

I have been known to raid deralict slot car bodies for their posts. When those aren't available, I also use 1/4" wood dowel cut to size with a hole drilled into one end for a body screw to go into. When I use dowel, I like to use #4 brass flat head screws because they have a short bit of smooth shank near the head which works great for body float. My glue method of choice is JB Weld. The quick set JB seems to be a little less runny than the slow set but I will use either depending on what is around at the time.

To add screw posts to a body here is what you do. Go to your local hobby shop and buy some styrene rod of the appropriate thickness. Cut pieces slightly longer than you think you'll need and mount them to the chassis. Now set the body on the posts to see how close it is to where you want it to sit. Trim down the posts a little at a time and check your progress frequently. Try not to over shoot as it much easier to trim a little off the post than put it back. Once the posts are the right length and the body is straight and level apply epoxy, gel type superglue, JB Weld or hot glue to the tops of the posts and sit the body on. Make sure it is positioned straight and level, then don't touch it! I usually shim the tops of the tires with styrene strips or HO scale axles so the tire clearance is even all around. Also it helps to angle the top of the post if the body slopes where it contacts. You may want to then add some strengthening braces around the bases of your new posts but I've had very few problems with breakage. This is also a good way to mount a model kit body when scratch building.

Thanks CKR; welcome to the HRW forum.

Audi1

Allan

I guesstimate the size of post I need and fasten the post to the chassis with screws after a bit of adjusting around maybe some trimming or sanding once I am happy with how it sits I then put super glue on the post and I position the body onto the chassis - Once set I run the car a few times make sure I am happy with the ride height etc and then I use JB Weld to secure the post to the body. I am planning on trying the putty method for my next car as it also looks like a good option.

Body float comes from loosening the screws - if not 100% happy you can also sand down the posts a bit...

cheers
David

If you just glue styrene tubing to the body it may break off when the car crashes. I like to put a foot on the body end of the post. I cut out a small square of ABS from a jewel case and drill a hole in the center of that to match the OD of the tubing. Slot Car Corner sells brass inserts with matching screws that fit the ID of the tubing, which is much better than screwing right into the end of the tubing.

If you are old school, you can go to McMaster Carr and buy brass inserts that fit inside the styrene tubing like the old Monogram/Revell cars. Glue the insert in the tube and use 4-40 screws to mount the chassis....float from loosening the screws.

Or just take a couple sizes of tubing and telescope them so the inner one is small enough to hold a screw, and mount those. I have done this a couple times to save drilling a crooked mounting hole.......

There are some very easy to use body mounts available from Bruce Paterson. Take a look at his #24250. Not sure if they will fit some of these 1/32's but they are great for 1/24 hardbodies.

Audi, that's a good system you used but to make it even simpler, get a chunk of 3/8 wooden dowel, drill a hole in the one end and do the cutting as you did on the other. 3/8 square can easily be ripped out of a piece of 2x4 and that is my most often goto. I then use Goop to glue the top to the underside of the body.