Slot Car photography equipment

[SRQSloter]

I use a Canon Power Shot A560. Think it was around $150. Works good for me only thing wish it had was the stabilization feature. Have even used it for videos with no problem. Issue I have is lighting in my apartment.

[miveson]

A few things from my setup

45cm x 45cm tent
Cardboard (White/Black)
3 x LED lights @ 5400 (left, right and top)
Tripod
Grey card

I'll take a photo of the setup next time......

It's critical that you know your camera and it's settings. Use the self timer function on your camera.

Mark

[Ember]

Most important thing. GET YOURSELF A TRIPOD. Sorry, did I over stress that? :)

I'm really curious as to what sort of EOS you got for that kind of money. Would LOVE to upgrade my old clunker, but seriously can't afford to sniff at another DSLR with the prices charged here.

I use an EOS10D. We're talking first generation DSLR here, so the resolution is only 6.5 megapixels in comparison to the current lot at 22 or whatever. I have two lenses but mainly use the 28-80mm zoom for slot shots. Tripod (did I mention that before?), remote shutter release (cheap from Amazon these days) and a set of close up filters.

The close up filters are a cheap way of turning any lens into a macro lens. Another option is an extension tube, but I find that idea cumbersome. The filters come in a set of 3 at 1x, 2x and 4x magnification and can be used in any combination.

Most important rule I could give you is play. Practice. Shoot lots of photos and learn what you can do. Experimentation is your best teacher.

[Dangermouse]

[MoparGreg]

I'm no expert but I find almost any of the current happy snap type cameras can take a fantastic shot under the right conditions. If you have great lighting, a tripod that's a long way to a great photo. Also using macro and manual focus helps to. There's no need to buy the most expensive camera to take great shots with today's technology.

[studioRS]

@shotgun - You've done good on that purchase, even with a kit lens! Hint; force yourself to shoot at max zoom 55m to keep any wide angle distortion out of it, that way you'll get a more natural looking photo. The human eye and brain sees things roughly around 50mm lens style. The only problem will be is max open ƒ stop on that 55m lens is only ƒ5.6 so you'll need lights. As bibbster said, lighting, lighting, and Ember recommends a tripod…

Keeping the Canon on "auto" setting is an eay way out, but mucho better results will happen if you be brave and set it to, "M" Manual. Assuming your shooting indoors at night, with your warm halogen lights try max zoom 55m, ISO to 200 or 400, and white balance around 4000K, then fill the lens with your photo you want to shoot, focus and then set the shutter to around 1/20 sec, no flash. You are ok without a tripod as long as you have something to steady the camera body on.

[whitworthnut]

I use a Nikon D90 which I bought for my wife a couple of years ago. It's a great camera which you can take some really crappy pictures with I discovered. Conversely you can take great pictures with a crappy camera.

That to say, it's not the camera. I don't know if anyone mentioned this.....use a tripod and a remote. That's probably the biggest factor in getting a good shot. Did anyone say take lots of shots? I probably took 50 to get the money shot of my Bugatti.

The tripod will also let you play with your settings. I take my shots with the longest possible exposure time and highest F stop (F25-35). You can't do that without a tripod. With a tripod you don't need the anti-shake feature. Some recomment that you turn it off, although I personally have seen no difference either way when using a tripod.

Position your camera at the same level as your subject or close to it. Pretend you are a 1:32 human.

Play with lighting. No flash, no sunlight, no direct lighting. Use diffused lighting or reflected lighting.These are all really simple things.

[studioRS]

Definately agree with Peter, keep the lens low and right at the same level as a 1:32 scale person. Since it is digital, shoot away!

With my recommended settings above, as a starting point, this is roughly how they will look.



I use this equipment…
- Olympus E-500 digital DSLR 4/3rds camera
- Olympus lens adapter
- Vintage Circa 1973 Olympus Zuiko 50mm Æ’1.4 manual focus lens
(not my exact setup, but the combo of these looks like this)

[SRQSloter]

[Ember]

I'm going to play odd one out here. I don't use lights. Wherever possible I use natural lighting. Just long exposures. My lenses are both fairly slow in the grand scheme of things at f4.8. But whatever equipment you've got you can get great shots out of if you simply learn what it can do and more importantly what YOU can do.

Photography books and tutorials will give you a bunch of rules to follow. Don't worry about rules. Just play. One of the best things about digital cameras is that you don't have to pay to process film. So you can keep shooting away without a care in the world.

Another good thing is the data that they record alongside the image. If you find a shot that works great, look at that data. It will help you learn what to do to recreate that image again.

It's amazing how often there will be one magic image in a session of so-so. When you find that, try to recreate that image. You'll learn how tiny variations in angle and lighting can impact the final outcome.

Another thing worth doing is 'bracketing'. Most DSLRs will let you automatically bracket 3 shots for exposure. The first will be at 'correct' exposure, the second under and the third over. I usually use a half to full stop bracket. Modern cameras are clever, but they don't always get things right. Sometimes a slightly under exposed shot will capture more detail. Sometimes a slightly over exposed shot will capture more drama. Again, it's a matter of experimenting.

Having said all that, I just bought myself a cheap little point and shoot (the first I've ever owned) to have handy at my desk so that I can shoot in process and still have respectable images. Sometimes setting up the DSLR is jut a hassle. Damn those little things are getting good.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

Dave, after working away using a flash that was built-in, my flash died. It actually made a frying sound and arced a very bright spark when it was gone. Looking at the cheapo flood light that Harry had discovered about that time, I went out and found one, and used a large white piece of stiff white styrofoam as a bounce screen. Everything Harry said about the way the cheapo light was superior to his flash came true for me, and by then, I didn't have a flash anymore! I just tape the white sheet to a ladder in the shop, angle it so a 100 watt flood light bounces off it at 90 degrees or so, and presto- a huge field of soft, clean light. You'll see hundreds of pictures made this way very soon when I put my HO TJets up for sale. I'll be taking pictures of over 400 cars, miles of track, etc. You won't miss it, that's for sure.

[FootScoot]

A good photographer I'm not, and the lighting in my living room is horrid, but I have fairly decent camera a Nikon Cool Pix L120. It's a point and shoot but it works for me. I just glad the pics are good enough to show what I have built or modified. :lol:

[Ember]

Remember the camera is your tool. Not the other way around. :lol:

[Fast Co.]

[ListerStormGT]

David, I have been like you the last year or so and just use my I phone 5. Yes lazy I know but I got tired of removing memory cards to upload pics to my comp.