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Looks good.

But don't forget the aprons (turn borders)

I know, just me being Devil's Advocate...but without room to slide/drift, just takes away from the actual purpose of the track. (IMO)

No Sir!,I want all the drift room I can get! The squares only represent actual minimum track area, the tables will be skeletal construction to permit aprons and scenery, I will bump out the areas where I need more apron.
But Thanks for the advice, its easy to miss details when your all excited about a build!
Bob

I may extend the right side another two feet all the way to the wall, I will wait and see how it plays out, the leftover two feet does not allow for much other than marshaling the corner, and I can reach that area from the front. It would give me nearly 14 ft of straight against the back wall! Yea Dave,you and Harry are both right, I would not even consider a track without aprons, Huggin a guard rail on the outside just don't cut the mustard with me :lol:
Bob

I think it's overall good too ! You use your space wisely, without creating a "spaghetti" layout.

Be carefull with the turning bridge (visibility and playability). Make sure you can reach the cars, that's the farest point of your track (if I understand correctly, the L shape will be against a wall corner, right?). Turn means necessary de-slots, so it can be very annoying to hurt your back trying to reach a car hiding under the bridge, for example.

Elevation (from top to bottom) in corners can also be very tricky, especially without magnets. I had a hairpin like this on my 1st track, with about 25cms elevation in just a few feet, it was great for rally, not so great for GT cars.

If you run 2lanes only, you could also try to vary the radius bit (wider radius), or "brake" some straights lines with really, really wide (almost straight) fast radius.

Last thing I didn't notice on first look : the crossovers. Again on my first track, I was using them at first...But quickly removed them from the track.

Will you use plastic track or routed ?


(edited to add extra comments)

D-man. The left side will be 2ft from the wall for marshaling, The back of the bridge section will be hollow from the backside to allow for access. The crossovers will allow equal lane length ,either lane will have 6 inside turns. When the actual outside trim goes around the framing, I will have about3 1/2 ft to reach at the widest point. I mocked up some cardboard sheets to check reach, and its pretty easily marshaled. Overall. I am pretty happy with the part I have thought out.But there is always room for thought and other's ideas! To start with I am using the 100 or so feet of strommie track that will be taped. If the design proves to my/our liking ,it will be pulled and a routed MDF track will go in its place. As crazy as that sounds,I don't want a bunch of strange radius turns, and I don't want to have varying lane spacing or things like that.

Bob

I so agree with the KISS method, Since we already have the big oval, and that where most of the really heavy action will be, This two lane track will be more for when you are solo or maybe someone stops by for some leisurely made laps through the countryside. It will have a timing system, so there will be some competition no doubt!
Another thing of interest,is that the corner tracks I will be using to start with, Are the 1959-1964? smooth sections, before strombecker added their sandblast finish. It should simulate wood pretty close for testing purposes.

Goood thinking here !

Concerning the crossovers, you don't need them to have equal lanes, since you have a bridge ;) The bridge (any 8 shaped track) will make the lanes equal.

No crossovers = no wrecks. Theorically, the guys should slowdown before the crossover, but in the reality, they will never brake first ! But since this track is more focused on solo, it should not be a problem.

Yes, try it, you'll see if it's something for you ! When I made some researchs for my new track, I saw that a lof of people (especially with routed tracks) use squeeze lines, crossovers, etc...and seems to really appreciate it.

On youtube I even saw club/racing group videos of this kind of tracks, and the races were very smooth.

The thing is that I'm surrounded by casual racers (broter and friends who see slot racing like just another toy in my gameroom, between the pinball, darts and videogames), I'm the only one really hooked by this hobby here. So it's probably a reason why I try to keep everything simple. I hope that the new oval will be extra fun because of that ! The few tests I made with my brother seems to confirm ;)

My oval see's a lot of heavy handed drivers,it is just like yours (Artin) and those wide sweeping corners are a lot more forgiving than my road course will be! That being said, Most if not all the racing that will be done on the road course will be experienced drivers. I will also have the power down on the road course for a more enjoyable (to me) scale speed.That is where all my intricate detail sports cars will be spending their time,and my collection of vintage Strombecker cars will get to come out and play!
Bob

Rusty, A very good friend of mine/ours! Had said If you not going to exercise the flexibility of a routed tracks capability's,You might as well stay with the plastic. He is Dead right of course, Especially with True vintage strommie track, A lot of folks dont know that if you get old enough track,its smooth as glass,and originally had aluminum strips which are non magnetic.
I cut my teeth on this old strombecker track,and love the way the cars swayed out thru the corners,You are correct that with proper turn aprons,and modern tires,the wood similarity would be uncanny! The jury's out on that just yet,till we run some laps. I had given that a lot of thought tho,especially after seeing some of the hand painted plastic tracks on this forum!
Bob