Brass chassis

[BARC 1]

Well today I built my first brass chassis in over a decade. I want to enter this into the Brass-Am, I have Porsche 911 to put on it,

I am using a new S class motor from Minebea. This motor is 10X10 X19mm. I measured the torque today at 48gm/cm, and it is supposed to be turning at 15000RPM @ 12 volts, which feels about right. I will check this when my optical tach gets here. This motor has a 6 pole armature, which I confirmed today when I pulled one apart. It has four permanent magnets in the can. It is supposed ot be a patented design( whatever that is worth today) and the torque is twice that of other similar sized motors. The brakes are really good on this small can motor. From full speed to stop in about 30cm. You can run them for hours and they barely get warm.

I like these motors and have started using themin 143 scale and they knocked a second off my lap times, because of the great brakes. They leave lots of room for detailed interiors which I hope to do for Daves Trans Am proxy.

Pretty simple chassis, not much to go wrong.







So Harry your love of brass is infectious, and I just had to build one to enter in your Brass Am

Cheers


Dan

[HomeRacingWorld]

Great effort from where I sit. Congratulations.

Glad to have you aboard :)

[Modlerbob]

That is about the simplest brass chassis I have ever seen, which is good. Very little to break.

[Broman62]

Simply and cool B1... mind if I ask what thickness of brass plate did you use? Thanks in advance!!

[BARC 1]

Brass plate thickness is 1/32

I use a torch for soldering. I haven't tried but I think the brass plate is a big heat sink and it might be hard to solder with an iron

Thanks for the comments. I had to start somewhere and it seemed that simple would be a good place to start. I have sketched out some modifications and will build a version 2 now . Some mods for motor mounting and an adjustable front axle and guide plate.

Cheers


Dan

[chrisguyw]

Hi Dan, Good job!!

FYI , .032 brass (1/32") is easily soldered with a good quality iron and some liquid acid flux.......however, there is absolutely nothing wrong with using a torch (do use liquid acid flux as well).

On your next chassis you may want to consider "stepping" the guide tongue......having the tongue on the same plane as the bottom of the chassis plate results in a significant amount of clearance, particularly with some of the older style guides. "Stepping" the guide tongue will also require you to "step" the front axle tube to take advantage of the reduced clearance. You will be happy with these mods.!!

Very easy to do........make a separate guide tongue, and solder this to the top of the chassis plate. For the front axle, you can use some brass sheet/square tube, or, make some piano wire "L"s. Make sure everything is nice and square/axles parallel, and on the same plane, and enjoy!! :D

Cheers
Chris Walker

[BARC 1]

Thanks Chris

Version two was going to have a separate guide plate and front axle assembly so I was thinking along those lines.

This chassis has lots of clearance, but this allows side pod brass to be attached to the bottom of the chassis if required. I find with this low profile motor even with the clearance the chassis is flat in the corners with no roll.

This is basically my gift card chassis design done in brass.

Cheers and thanks

Dan

[BARC 1]

Here are some pictures of the chassis with the removable brass side pods installed.

These side pad weights are brass strip, and can be what ever size you need to get the best balance on the car. You can move them back or forward or take them off. They are held tightly in place with steel slot car rail scavenged from some old track

For proxy racing if a host want to mess with the chassis to try and get the most out of it these side pods weights would allow some weight adjustment for a particular track. Personally as long as the chassis is flat with no roll, I am happy with no additional weight. However once you add the body and interior it may need the COG lower. These add on side pods do that. So version two will most likely have the guide pad elevated as you suggested all in an effort to keep the COG as low as possible.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

You realize you just re-invented the Womp! With a better motor, more even weight distribution, You also improved it.