Typical Weight Setup When Converting a Slot.It to Magnetless

[pgtr]

Just experimenting with converting a Slot.It (and a Scaley w/ same config) with an inline motor to magnetless. Assuming no other specific mods as a starting point - how much weight and where do you locate it as a typical 'starting point' when removing a factory magnet setup.

This would be on a hard plastic sectional track.

thanks

[Ember]

A lot of variations possible according to the model you're using. And everyone also has their own preferences.

First suggestion would be get the car running as best you can without weight first. A Sot.it GT40 sidewinder runs fine on my track on urethane tyres with no added weight. The Scalex version, which is inline, on the same tyres needs a bit (2g) of weight as close to the guide as possible to keep its nose down.

Weight positioning is dependent on the reactions of the car. If it is showing a tendency to lift its nose when it deslots (or bounces over track joints) then a little weight just behind the guide is good. A little weight just in front of the tyres will tend to aid traction. If your car is inclined to bite and roll out of the corners you might actually want a little weight higher up in the car.

But always run the car and observe what it is doing, before adding any weight. Then add a little weight where you think it needs it and observe again. Adjust and observe....

[nhdungeonracer]

A typical starting point is... experimentation

Probably not what you want to hear, but if I say place the weight as far back as possible, yet keep it in front of the rear axle (my typical setup), how will you know if putting the weight further forward is not better for your track and conditions? If you are willing to experiment, you may (should) find other ways that work better for you.

Start by pulling the magnet, and run the car with no weight added. This gives you a baseline to compare how adding weight in different areas help or hinder the performance of the car. There are some cars that may not need any weight added, but you won't know that unless you try some experiments.

Good luck :)

[Retro Racer 44]

Take a quarter and a piece of tape or plastitack and stick it on, test, try another location, test, etc until you think you have it right. Then add the permanent weight in that location with Goop or Shoe-Goo, so you can peel it if if need be. Draw a triangle from the guide post to the rear wheels, and try to keep your weight inside it. I would rather have weight nearer the guide than the rear tires.

[balsaworks]

A few thoughts:
Prepare the tires really well and keep the track clean. Aftermarket tires (like Paul Gage urethanes) may be a good idea, especially for the Scalextric car.
Most Slot-it cars will run just fine without magnet and without additional weight, but they will be overpowered. An adjustable power supply is very useful if you switch over to the magnet-free world.
If you want to experiment to get the best possible performance, a lap timer is mandatory.
If you just want to get the most enjoyable driving experience then you alone is the judge. Slot-it cars can take LOT of extra weight, and still run nicely, if you just want to modify their behavior.
Scalextric cars are more unpredictable without magnet, and unfortunately it is often difficult to find room for extra lead inside them. The GT40 and Ferrari 330/412 (and many other) Scalex cars run really well w/o magnets & lead, while there are beasts that are resistant to any treatment.

[Modlerbob]

Just a point, my Scaley GT40 is a sidewinder, the same as the slot.It and Fly versions. I agree with the other posters that adding weight is experimental and varies based on driving preferences, track type and configuration.

[Czar]

Make sure you are using a real timer. Trying to judge speed and lap times by guess is not going to get you very far. Any improvements can only be evaluated by having correct times. Also, remember that the fastest car is not always the fastest car. A car that is stable and easy to drive will usually beat a jack rabbit that is twitchy in the turns. To finish first; first you must finish. Also, look back at Harry's excellent tutorials on setting his Slot.it and Scaley cars.

[chappyman66]

I primarily run on plastic with the group. For that track, we just pull the magnets, put on Super Tires, loosen the pods, and run. No added weight has been needed with Slot.it cars, at least at this point. But as other have said, it's all about track configuration, driving style, etc. So if you can run comfortably without more weight, excellent.

If not, then you add weight based on what the car does when it deslots. If it's tail happy (sliding the tail easily) then adding weight just in front of the rear wheels tends to be the first bet, and then along the sides of the chassis. If the car pops the front end out then you need weight under the front axle, probably right behind the guide. These are general starting points.......YMMV.
I have two Fly Coda Lungas - one without weight and one with a slab of lead underneath the chassis. The weighted car is mild and easy to drive, but has no acceleration out of the corners because of the weight. Keep that in mind, and run with as little weight as possible.

[Ember]

Might depend on the age Bob. My two Scaley GT40s are both inline. The Ford GT (the newer, bigger, kid brother) is all sidewinder. It doesn't take much to get going really well.

[Nor Cal Mike]