Guide position

[Dangermouse]

Hello all

I just built a resin kit and the guide is very close to the front axle. There is room to move the guide forward about 10mm.

This would involve making a new guide holder and attaching it to the chassis.

Is there any advantage in doing this?

cheers
David

[RichD]

I don't recall hearing any theories on what should work better. The theory with respect to wheelbase is that short wheelbase cars turn better and should work well on twisty tracks while long wheelbase cars are more stable and work well on flowing tracks. The same theory might apply to the guide flag location. With the Slot.it HRS2 chassis the guide flag location can be adjusted independently from the wheelbase, so If you had one of those it would be easy to experiment with different guide flag locations.

[Florida_Slotter]

The longer the distance from Front AXle centerline (FAX) to Guide Post Centerline (GPC)' usually makes the car easier to drive.

One of my easiest cars to drive is a Revell - Monogram Lola T-70 Spyder that has an HRS2 chassis under it. I "hogged out" the front pan of the car to get the guide as far forward as possible. You can drive the very fast and consistently.

I have not figured out how to post photos on my iPad as of yet. But here is the url of the photo.

http://myseries.lenzus.com/cgi/item?851 ... 35779924+1

[CrockettNZ]

Yes the further forward the better
From what I have read about guide set up on 1/32 scale it is more about the distance from the rear axle to the center of the guide post
Having a guide with a front leading edge is also of a benefit
My 2 preference's are the new standard slot-it with screw fit and ninco pro-race guides

[Florida_Slotter]

[CrockettNZ]

I agree with that Florida_Slotter
It would make it alot easier but we just have to work with what we have
Sometimes you have to ream the post mount out a little and sometimes you have to pack it out a little
I do like to get the fit so that the guide spins freely but has next to no sideways play so that the guide still sits square when cornering
That can quite often take a fair bit of mucking around but when it comes to club racing every little bit helps
Especially with the guy's I race with

I haven't had any experience with building 1/24 cars or metal chassis as of yet
But have most certainly taken quite a few tuning tips and tricks from there and implied them to 1/32 RTR
With great success

I will be starting my first brass chassis soon to go under a modified 70 Mustang body
Just got to finish the old scaly ford escort xr3i I am modifying first

[chappy]

Hi David I take it you are working on the GT Jag.
The best I can give is that when setting up for a triangular or 3 point system which as you know is guide post center to the rear axle ends at the wheels, is when the front whells are not fixed in a down position. Usually I have found the greater that ditance on a commercial type or long home track the better the car will handle.
This all changes though when you use a quad setup whereby the front wheels are set at a level where they contact the track and support the front end rather than the guide supporting the front end.
in the quad set up the wheel base has more to do with car performance than guide to rear wheels distance. Depending on what your intentions are with the Jag, you may want to think about using the PCS front end extender, it can be made to fit in the GT chassis and allow you to preset the distance to the guide center. Having said that the tripod is a good system as is the quad . Just have benefits for different applications. For home use or clubs with a non commercial size track I like to use quad, but when you get into higher speed and long flowing corners like those on a commercial track, the tripod really performs well.
SCC I am pretty sure have the PCS chassis fronts and the complete chassis kits, although I bet you can find them in your neighborhood too.
Good Luck
Bob