Concerning tracks using copper tape

[Modlerbob]

My mdf track was built using copper tape instead of braid. Before we moved it there were few problems with breakage and the subsequent need for patches. After the move and since we had to break up the old track there are multiple patches on every lane. The tape I bought is good but the adhesive on the back insulated the two layers of tape requiring some means of completing the electrical connection. Soldering was the best solution but it created small bumps in the track and there are places where the contact with the guide braid wore away the solder making repeat repairs necessary. We plan to retape the entire track with as few joints as possible but in the meantime I wanted a better solution to the patching problem. I think someone here mentioned the existence of copper tape with conductive adhesive and I finally found a vendor that sells rolls of this tape. It is a little more expensive than the other tape so I will only use this roll for patches. It came today and I was eager to try it out. Oddly enough one lane had a dead section and after I located the break I patched it with the new tape and I was able to drive again without the need for solder.

This tape will probably work well on plastic track where adjoining sections have a poor connection. I tried copper tape when I had scaley sport track but the adhesive caused problems.. I got it from rshughes.com
http://www.rshughes.com/p/3M-Copper-Tap ... 007_35083/

[redlynr]

Where I have overlaps, I use a pin to pierce the 2 strips, the more the merrier.

[goosenapper]

[Retro Racer 44]

The tip of a razor knife works well also. Just poke the tip through both layers a few times with the blade parallel to the slot.

[Modlerbob]

I too have used the piercing technique with varying results. I have sometimes had to go back several times over a period of time. Also in my case I can only reach the front straight and adjacent corners being in a wheelchair. Using the tape with conductive adhesive I was able to use my retrieval stick to get it in place and then burnish it down with a wood dowel.

I think from time to time it is good to make posts like this to inform new racers of tips to improve their tracks because many of us never think to look in the archives to find information.

[Z-carfan]

Great info, Bob. I was having issue on my one lane test track. These tips are better that what I was doing, less bumpy too! (solder)

[Dangermouse]

thanks for starting the topic Bob - I didn't know about the tape with conductive adhesive nor the idea of perforating the patch piece with a blade

cheers
David

[waaytoomuchintothis]

There's another occasion when having been around forever leads me to assume people know things I learned so long ago. Its good that folks bring this kind of thing up, because clearly, us old farts aren't keeping people informed. The piercing at the overlaps is very important. It is also important to overlap the correct way. The tape will eventually peel up if you lay it without looking at directionality. Lift the leading edge tape and insert the patch under it, then lay the patch tape on top of the trailing section.

[SpeedyNH]

glad to hear that the stuff actually works!