Windshield smudges - ugh!

[Audi1]

I just installed a windshield and two side windows on a car. I guess I was in a little bit of a rush to do it, because I now have some smudges on the inside of all 3 pieces. I was using CA glue to do the install so it is likely that the smudges are CA residue. Is there a way to get these “glass” pieces back to looking normal again or am I just stuck with the smudges....?

Allan

[kidvoltage]

That's never been successful for me, usually just makes a bigger mess. I switched to the glue the model airplane folks use for cockpits. Looks white, dries perfectly clear.

[patwa]

Not sure if that is fixable. I was under the impression that CA will always haze the windows.
I have been told by the guy at my local hobby shop that only way to keep them clear is to use a white glue.
Testors has a product for that.
I have done the same before so I am also interested to see if it is repairable. Cheers

[mattb]

Probably stuck with it. About half of my builds end up that way. I got some of the new clear version of Gorilla Glue and it seems to really dry clear and not react with the plastic in any way. Not sure how strong the bond is, but time will tell. I have also used the watch crystal glue in the small white tube. It works pretty good , too, but maybe the bond isn't as strong. Neither dries very fast.

[mikeinclover]

It's a "racecar " Allan, put it on the track you will never see it going around the track.
Mike

[Audi1]

Now how do you know it’s a race car, Mike.....?

[RichD]

If you have a Dremel with a buffing wheel you may be able to remove the smudges with automotive buffing compound or even toothpaste.

[docdoom]

I have good results using the same stuff that you use to clean head lights lens. Mothers brand works the best

[chrisguyw]

As CA tends to attack styrene it is likely that the "smudges" are not only on the surface of the glass, but "into" the glass itself.

You can fix the problem by sanding the affected areas starting with 2000 thousand grit paper and working up to 8/12 thousand grit, then polishing compound, followed by a coat of Future/pledge...........it certainly can be done, but, it is a royal pain..........I only bother with this process on vintage cars where I have no access to clean/clear glass.

I would be careful if using a dremel........even at very slow speeds, it is easy to "burn" the glass (I became an expert on "burning" glass many years ago ;) )

A drivers net, drivers name, windshield shade, sponsor decals etc., over the smudges, while not the same as perfect glass, will be way way way easier.

Cheers
Chris Walker

[mikeinclover]

[HomeRacingWorld]

How many times do we have to show this?



Stop using CA! :) :naughty:

Buy it. Use it. Life will change. :whistle:

[waaytoomuchintothis]

Ditto. I have tried all the the available versions of the UV stuff, and they are all very acceptable. The particular one Harry pictured gives you a bit more of the liquid plastic than some of the others. There is one version of the stuff that has a small aluminum flashlight-style UV light, but that about the only difference from nearly all of the others, and they all work great.

[Brumos RSR]

I now use testors clear parts cement after doing this car after car after car.

[Fletch3]

I’m with Harry. I use BONDIC, and life did change! Even made extra mirrors with it. Great stuff!

[Ky.Slot Racer]