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I race on a 3 lane MDF track every week. I really like 1/32 slot.it cars but their Can/Am cars ,such as a McLaren/GT 40, seem to have a loose rear. Meaning the car sweeps wide in the turns, I have slot.it LMP's and C-class cars that run great on the same track. I run silicone tires on the rear . I have added some weight but that doesn't seem to help.
Suggestions please ! And....thanks.

Try positioning the weight in different areas. Have seen where folks think that placing the same amount of weight in the same areas of every car is good. But its not, varies car to car, even the same exact models of cars will be set up differently.

On the MDF tracks most of us here in the NW use urethane tires, but on some of the well used tracks that are rubbered in well we've been getting fantastic grip with Thunderslot tires.

The sidewinders have a rear weight bias that can cause a pendulum effect worsening a loose rear. Lead up front seems to help balance. Inlines and anglewinders don’t do this as much. I too found urethane work better than silicones on my new mdf track. Don’t forget to experiment with various mount screw adjustments. I have been surprised by the variability of optimum setups even within one motor mount style.

IMHO, adding weight is not the answer - thats just a band aid - it's like putting big sway bars on your 1:1 car when you should be changing the shock valving and springs then going with smaller bars. Companies like Slot It and NSR, etc go and spends all sorts of money to make their cars lighter and faster and then people add weight? Anyway, changing your driving style is the way. Where and when you get on the throttle or where and when you brake makes a huge difference as does how you do both (do you slam on the gas and jam on the brakes?) smooth is fast. Adjusting the controller also helps if you can. Clean tires before every heat is also imperative.

Going to subscribe to this one.

Slot.it/Thunderslot, etc make them light. But adding a touch of lead down under for CG has always helped. (For me anyway)

In this case, these models do not respond the same of course. LMP vs other styles? Well, they track one way, others are different. The suggested adjustment on driving style is a good one.

Are the other folks racing the exact same cars going past you?

How true are those silys on the rims? I have many that were not true out of the bag.that's one reason I have switched over to rubber tires. Lot less work getting a rubber tire true vs a silicone one

Something people should be aware of.... lighter is not always faster....

In this case of these Slot.It Can-Am cars, the orange end bell motors can overpower the light weight of the car, especially since he's running on a non-magnetic track. He needs to get some weight on the rear tires to help them maintain grip in the corners.
My guess is to place weight in front of the motor on the pod. Myself, I take a dremel and grind out all the magnet ribs so I have a flat area to lay the lead in.

Hmm, with all these differing opinions I think it might be time for an HRW Smackdown (non-magnet of course) somewhere in the central US where we can all meet, race, share our secrets, with some good-natured trash talk, put faces to names and just have some fun. Oh, and silicones must be allowed.

Who's up to host?

Tyres can't do their best job if there's no weight pushing them onto the track. If the back end is sliding out you've either got the pod too tight or there's not enough grip. If you're already running really grippy tyres you need to add ballast. With SlotIt's I prefer ballast in the pod. If the car deslots too easy add ballast up front.
Superlight cars accelerate and brake much better but lap times are lost on the slow parts of the track not the quick parts.
I read somewhere (not RTR plastic chassis cars) that you keep adding weight until the lap times suffer, then take a bit off again...makes sense and works for plastic chassis too.

Gotta hop in here.....
Silicones slide all over when dusty. If the track isn't clean, they will slide. If the slots aren't painted, then there will be dust on the track and dirty tires.

Having said that....the Slot.It GT40 is hands down one of the fastest cars I own, running on silicones with the orange can motor.
The short wheelbase seems darn near perfect and they outhandle everything except the Matra (which is a long wheelbase). And.....I run without extra weight anywhere.

My 2 cents:one reason for the rear to step out is friction at the front because
1-guide rubbing on the sides of the slot you need to file it down.Mostly happens on Ninco tracks.
2-too much/too little weight on front wheels:ideally front wheels should just touch the track and weight in front should be evenly distributed between braids and wheels.Moving the from from a copper taped track to a recessed braid track might need changing the ride height of the front axle

Setup of the rear axle is critical. The axle must be dead straight -- test by rolling it on a sheet of glass. There must be minimal slop of the axle in its bushings. If you can feel the axle move there is too much. The wheels must be round and true. Yes, it is possible to true up a wheel! And of course the tires must be bonded and trued, with rounded edges.

All other efforts to improve handling are a waste of time until you've gotten the rear axle right.

Ed Bianchi

Take a look at this: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qBiTF ... 30_ixis4rX

Thanks all ! I really appreciate all the suggestions. We run silicone only on our 2 area tracks. Others running these cars have the same issue as I do. A few racers have the Matra running in our Can-Am races and they handle so much better. My track is always clean. I use a tack cloth or 2 before every event. I have been looking at the tires after every heat and they are really clean. I can just buy the Matra, but I want my Can-Ams (GT40/Alfa/McLaren) to run better.
All the best from Buffalo. Bob