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Does anyone remember an article someone here did about tuning a Ninco Jaguar for wood tracks? I want to do all NC-1's, PG tires (they should be wider tread all around- Ninco's version looks silly), possible gear change (just the pinion, I hope), weight, etc. I'd like to avoid changing wheels because I'm going to do this six or eight times on these cars. This car is unique in that it is old Ninco and therefore like to so many others, but the long wheelbase and narrow track of the car makes it handle differently (ignoring for the moment the usual Ninco wobbly wheels and crown gears, bent axles, etc).

If there isn't an article, I'll do one, and I will experiment with several ways of doing this, but I really think its been done.

IMHO the Jag was one of the best handling Classics Ninco made. We run them stock except for Indy Grips (now Super Tires) on the rear, front wheel adjustment and a little weight added. A 10/24 gearing will add a little more speed. The reason for running this, way was it made for some really close and enjoyable racing. Not everything has to run balls out. Either way enjoy these little beauties.

http://www.homeracingworld.com/nincojaguar.htm
Harry did a review on this
Or
http://www.homeracingworld.com/nincojaguarroadster.htm
Michael Ashton
Hope this helps
BTW Paul Gage urathanes are nice on this -both the cobra (wider) and the stock (Classic)are great
You should not have to replace the motor as it is not overpowered (acctually my favorite motor from Ninco)

My mistake. I forgot that they later produced an XKE series. I'm working on a fleet of XK120's. That's why I mentioned the NC-1.

Not much needs doing to them. You might consider cutting the wheels to protect from hubs splitting. Smidge of weight and Bob's your mother's brother.

For what it is worth, a session on your tire truer, some good PG's, blocking the front axle to remove vertical play, and some lead placed in the right areas.

NOW we're getting somewhere! This is all useful to me. Goose, I remember watching your car take shape in that thread, and it may be that the article I think I remember was something else, and yours is the one I am really remembering. I plan to do some with steel wheels and and some with painted spoked. There were several of those. I will have to be creative to imitate the hubcaps if I do them.

Jon, there's nothing like a picture to inform, is there? How thick was that lead sheet? I have a couple of them I think.

Lynne, I remember your XKs. I'll do at least one with "pants on" because I like yours so much.

Harry, I really thought you had done a tuning session on these cars some time ago, the essence of which you just posted. Thanks.

I have collected a couple of dozen photos of race liveried XKs. When I get started I will assign which ones I'll do. I still don't know if I have enough NC-1s on hand yet, and that is the most important part of this for me. The track I have just brought back to life was a haven for NC-1 cars and Fly Classics. I'm a little cultish about these cars. They were the best bargains slot cars ever saw I think, and the quality was fine, if occasionally fiddly. When the prices went up, fiddly became unacceptably faulty of course. Meanwhile I have been picking up cars used for years for this project in particular.

Sly - try the M/T-1 motor - it is a PERFECT NC-1 replacement!

You have a bunch more NC1s on the way. :)

Don't need to go overboard on lead. A touch in just in front of the back wheels as a traction aid is probably enough.

"Pants on" you'll need to narrow the rear track a bit. There's not a lot of room under there for wider wheels. You might just squeeze BWA15 mids under there but she's tight. You can do it with careful bushing selection. Try Champion oilites. The flat faced ones. 711 without the speed ring.

I like the M/T-1 motor very much, and it is an NC-1 replacement par excellence, but I want these to be exactly like the old cars.

Thanks for the tip, Lynne. I was wondering about how to approach that.

This shows the front axle mod, and I did sand the outer edges of the chassis.

So NC-1 or not, these mods do seem to help a lot.

The lead is 0.032 in. thick.

David, I'm glad there are NC-1 type substitutes out there. We still spec. NC-1 motors for our Ninco Classics, since the new Ninco Classics don't come with the NC-1...we will have to allow a substitute. Right now our group seems to favor the H & R Rabbit 14,000 rpm. I haven't tried the M/T-1, but I know Harry uses them! :) Maybe, I'll try the M/T-1 for my IROC New Beetles! My friend Ed, slammed my Scalextric New Beetles down in the weeds using a Ninco chassis.

The front axle modification Harry suggests is a good one that I forgot about.