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Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 12:04 pm
by Audi1
Is Future floor wax the same thing (formula) as Pledge Floor Care Multi-surface finish? I'm looking to provide a clear coat over decals that come from Patto's Place and he recommends Future wax, rather than spray clear coats.
Also, since I don't have an airbrush, what's the next best way to apply this to cart bodies that have been painted and decaled?
Audi1
Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 12:16 pm
by whitworthnut
Yes it is and an airbrush is not required for application. Go to
http://prewar-scratchbuild.proboards.co ... nson-shine for a couple of videos that explain everything you would ever want to know about this product with respect to modeling.
Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 12:25 pm
by Gameover
I just dip it in and take it out. I use the top of an old slot car display case. It's not called future any more. It's called pledge floor care. It says "new look same great product" in the upper right corner. I got mine at menards.
Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 12:35 pm
by waaytoomuchintothis
There are several ways to do it, and I have to say, I never ever dip the product. You get a harder, thinner shell by simply brushing it on, making sure to get sufficient depth for the levellers in the finish to make it smooth for you. Dipping gets you a row of drips along the bottom edge to be cleaned off, and it takes forever to set hard that way. Remember that it is intended for use on a clean floor, wiped on with a sponge, not flooded.
Close it up as soon as you are finished or it will yellow and get cloudy in the bottle, making it useless.
Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 3:20 pm
by Ember
Does it really protect from the knocks and scrapes of racing??
Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 5:29 pm
by Modlerbob

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 5:41 pm
by mfogg
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Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 5:48 pm
by RazorJon
I use a plastic bowl a little bigger than the car, I place 2 rods across the bowl and set the car body on the rods, then I just squirt the body straight from the jug, I do it my paint booth under a 150 watt light so it dries real fast, I do 3-4 coats, then just pour the rest from the bowl back into the jug
Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:40 pm
by dr fabio
Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:43 pm
by waaytoomuchintothis
... and in no time, your jug of Future might be junk, Jon.
The portion that has had contact with the air has started curing within seconds. Just put a little puddle in something like a toy dish. I cut the bottom off a white plastic bottle vitamins came in. Its about 2 inches across and 1/2 inch deep. Half-full its enough for three coats on a 1/32, so don't waste it. Just brush it on one coat at a time, tossing the leftover after each coat. Keep the jug sealed shut as much as possible. I have had Future last as long as 7 years without beginning to yellow or get cloudy. If I hadn't been clumsy and knocked it off the table to break and hole in the bottle on the floor, I'd still be using that one. By the way, Future lasts a really long time on a concrete shop floor. It looked wet for years.
I have loads of artists brushes around here, and the one I use most often is about 1/4 inch, round white bristles for acrylics, Windsor-Newton.
Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 7:07 pm
by TsgtRet
Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 7:59 pm
by Reslotted
Yep it's true that pattos new waterslide decals although nice and thin and nice to use wont like any form of clear that is sprayed on with thinners involved, I've tried everything from Automotive clears, to normal acrylics, to enamel clear (which is very mild) and the decal will fry. I've even tried future over the decal and then clear acrylic, and still no good.
Now I clear my cars with Tamiya clear if required and then apply the decals and then brush over the decal only with Pledge/Future, I just use a normal modelling brush. Like the others said it's self levelling and finishes rock hard, although can be taken off later if required using window cleaner. (I always clean the brush with window cleaner after use)
I always tip a bit of future into a small container and use that, whatever I don't use I throw away, I tipped some back in once a while ago and it had contaminated the bottle causing white cars to come out "off" white when I used it.
I've also brushed it over complete cars with good results, but have heard that some people have reported a tackiness sets in after a while due to a lot of handling.
Best thing to do is have a little play around and see what works best for you.
Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 8:40 pm
by waaytoomuchintothis
Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Sun Apr 27, 2014 10:44 pm
by Ember
I tend to design my fantasy liveries with decals over the windows. This, of course, means they need clear coating for protection. I've been using Tamiya clear without any problems.
Very curious to try the Future/Pledge option, but can't get anything of it's ilk in town. It seems to be a constant quibble. :(
Re: Clear coat

Posted:
Mon Apr 28, 2014 5:12 am
by whitworthnut
I used it as a top coat on a couple of wooden models for a friend who's son was racing them with Boy Scouts and the results were excellent. Very hard to get wood to shine without deep thick coats of something. However, for plastic models, I have been more satisfied with a Clear Coat like Tamiya. Future seems to be too thick looking. Just my opinion.