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Oh, one more avenue to check out- Try a few different Slot.it axles. I had one Slot.It axle that I couldn't fit a Slot.it crown over- it was just too darn big. I changed to a different Slot.It axle and it went right one. Sometimes the axles are not exactly 3/32".

Just for fun, put the axle in the freezer for a while. Steel expands and contracts a fair amount with temperature.

Now, if that gets it to fit properly, I can't guarantee what will happen when the axle expands again at room temperature...

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Well you took care of that, nice approach.

I use drill blanks and have only had to wet sand the axle ends a minute or two on a couple sets of wheels...out of about 50-60 sets.

I stopped buying "name brand" axles just for the reasons Goose and Audi touched on. I have measured them on many occasions and the tolerances are all over the place. And I have also had gears that won't fit, but it is very rare.

Audi, try chucking up those Slot.its and use some 600 grit or finer paper. Give them a little redneck lubricant (spit) and you might get a few that will work for you.

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I use a reamer on all wheels just to make sure there are no burrs in the bore of the wheel. I do this on all wheels of all brands. I have two reamers, I use a .0935" first if that doesn't solve the problem I use a .094", there's only .0005" difference between the two, so it isn't much but it works. I've noticed on some of the Slot It. axles the ends aren't always perfect. If that's the case a sanding with some 400 or 600 grit and water will correct the problem. Doesn't take much to keep them from going on so I always clean the axles with a microfiber towel and also clean the bore in the wheel with a pipe cleaner. :)

Just now seeing this thread. Yes - they can be tight (given a choice between tight and loose, we prefer tight) and in some cases, you may have to try another axle. Some tips:

1) ALWAYS use a brand new axle - no exceptions. Used axles often exhibit "galling" (look closely under a magnifying glass and you'll see it).

2) Gently twist the wheel while inserting it onto the axle.

3) NEVER force the wheel onto the axle. If you do, you will almost certainly "gall" the axle and may have a difficult time removing the wheel. If you feel resistance, try another (new) axle if available.

4) You can reduce the o.d. of the axle (using the method Harry describes) or increase the wheel's bore (ever so slightly) of the wheel if necessary. If you go with enlarging the wheel bore, the key is to remove as little material as possible. We use a hand held straight reamer for this purpose (as FootScoot suggests) as we have more control over how much material is being removed. We find motor-powered solutions (drills, Dremels, etc.) to be less desirable as they remove material much more quickly.

If you still have a problem, please give us a shout - we're here to help!

:text-thankyouyellow:

Yes, ream by hand! Never use a power tool. I forgot to mention that. :oops:

The 3/32 ream is one of the most useful tools you can buy. It's right up there with my TireRazor and my Slot.it gear press for favourite slot car tool.