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This past racing season I raced with two clubs one mag and the other non mag. On the non side we run a TransAm class that requires the use of stock rims and guides. On the mag side it is encouraged to run stock parts to keep cost down. Now comes my problem, I have split two TransAm rims and one on a Scalextric Porsche Spyder and now I find that I must order three rear axle assemblies. I was wondering why Scalextric does not offer stock plastic rims as other companies do? I am not the cheap skate that you might think and I am ordering at least two or three extra TransAm Camaro rear assemblies so to be able to have multiple tire compounds for next year. I also know that the assembly is only $8 but this is a problem of principal and not cost.

I think they sell them assembled because the knurled axles make it difficult to hand press the hubs onto. Once a hub has been removed it becomes more prone to splitting or sliding off the axle. I would bet that they heat the axle for the initial placement. I try not to remove the hubs unless absolutely necessary forcing me to true the hubs and tires in place on the car. Razor Jon makes a tire truer that does not require removing the hubs from the axles. Most of my Scaley cars that have never had the rims removed still have the original undamaged rims in place. Many that have split I easily repair by sliding a short piece of brass or aluminum tubing over the hub and adding a dab of CA glue. I have also successfully used heat shrink tubing to do the job.

If you notice hubs splitting bind them tightly and neatly with sewing thread and then dribble superglue over the thread. Makes a nice strong cuff. I've taken to doing this as part of my tuning routine with all plastic wheels.

All great ideas, some that I have used,, ie the brass or aluminum sleeves on the outside of the axle hub.
I never thought of the thread and glue trick Embs, although I used it to wrap a golf club shaft years ago.
Bob the Heat shrink is a great idea , could you elaborate abit on the technique you use.
All the best
Bob

If a plastic hub has just split and not completely broken I take a short length of heat shrink tubing that is slightly larger in diameter than the hub and slide it over. Then I either use a Bic lighter or a hot soldering iron to activate the heat shrink. Has worked very well if the crack is caught early.

I must admit, hate taking wheels off knurled axles and will only do it when I'm replacing the rim with an alloy one.

The binding and superglue is surprisingly strong. I've used it on arrows to stop them splitting when making self-nocks on ramu or Port Orford cedar shafts.

I think I have had the odd one, do, that, but nothing quite as frequent as you have experienced.
I wonder if Scalextric would do anything if you sent them an e mail.
Bob thanks, for, the tip with the heat shrink, a great idea, thats thinking outside the box.
It is something I will definitely try, and to catch it early is a good way of ensuring your race prep
includes the hubs.
Thanks again , a good thread all around.
Bob