by walker » Tue Feb 23, 2016 11:29 am
I have tested them extensively.
If you have been used to run motors like FC130 or the square H0 motors or the RS, increasing the nominal voltage as usual, you will be disappointed.
The torque is much weaker - logical because of the tiny components - the thin wire, the thin weak magnets etc.
Most of these motors are designed for 1.5 to max. 7.5 volts and - again as above - because of the tiny ( = weaker ) components do not stand the overpowering with the usual 14 or whatever volts. The major weakness are the "brushes" which are the same simple strips of copper, but smaller and thinner than in the bigger GO!/SCX compact etc.
Using them is a matter of which intention you pursue.
If you are going to have a fleet of nice scale MODELS, if you prefer using an equal voltage for all your models to realize this way which car runs best, take them.
If you want to build almost any model, no matter if open or closed, no matter which size, use them.
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If your purpose is unlimited speed and voltage, better buy anything bigger and more expensive.
I tried them in an SCX Compact Audi DTM and Mercedes DTM, using the original gears. Of course I had to use sleeves for the pinions.
The cars were balanced a bit, tyres changed to PU, trued. Guide modified to "normal slotar technique", with motor wires. The cars weigh something around 45 grams. They were run at 9 and 12 volts, but the difference was not really remarkable. At 9 volts they ran cooler of course. If I find the video clip I will show it.
All in all - they fit MY requirements quite well, but after 30 years of WingCar, G12 etc. hi speed racing my ambition now is a balanced proportion between speed and scale modeling, more tending to scale modeling.
What is left is the problem with gears. There isn't a variety of pinions with 1.5 mm bore on the market, but with 1 mm bore even less.
Excellent for SCALE modeling, not really usable for simple scorching.
Roland