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Home Racing World • View topic - question
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question

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 6:30 pm
by racer6583
This will be for the old slot racer.

Can you take a 143 motor and dip it like a 132 motor or will it ruin the 143 motor?

Re: question

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 9:09 pm
by sirslotsalot
What is the motor from and is it running poorly or are you "breaking it in"?

Re: question

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 9:50 pm
by racer6583
Just want to know if you can do this to any size can motor for breaking it in and if it runs poorly I have an rs 9v that is a dog with three broken legs and i was thinking of trying to dip it like you can with the 132 motors to see if dipping it would but a little fire in it.

When the rs motor was first installed it ran five laps at a good clip then slowed way down my stock scx mercedes DTM is now faster then my audi DTM that has the rs 9v and my course is a short type road track total length is 7'8" with 5 turns and a little thing I call the bus stop sort of like the right,left then a short straight then left,right like at the glen in NY.

Time so far for stock motor is around 5 to 6.5 sec at 12v 1mA but my ff 030 time is 3 sec or less, in my F1 with the renault F1 with a 9v rs is a bit faster and the rs in my lmp2 is 4 sec to just a tick under 4 and with the brakes turn off the built cars are a hand full to keep on the track.

Sorry I can't give you a more accurate time but I don't have a good timing system yet.

I hope the info gives you a bit of insight to my problem with this motor, OH BTW after ten laps it seems to over heat to me but it is slow to begin with after the initial run.

Re: question

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 7:33 am
by Cjent
All electric (DC) motors are alike. I would think it is worth a try. What have you got to lose?

Re: question

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:28 am
by sirslotsalot

Re: question

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 2:03 pm
by ElSecundo
No matter what the brush material is, the comm segments can fill with crud like oil and dirt. This 'bleeds' voltage from segment to segment, and it doesn't take much of this to weaken the motor. A good cleaning can help. :)

For carbon brush motors, this is also a good break-in method. Don't know if it helps metallic brushes much.

Re: question

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 3:58 pm
by OL Mike

Re: question

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 4:13 pm
by sirslotsalot
Shackel,

I agree with you on dipping expensive motors as it is "cost-effective". As for cheap motors, buy new and save on labor.

Re: question

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 5:00 pm
by Broman62
[/size]

Re: question

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 8:01 pm
by racer6583
Thank you all I think I'll put a new one in and then play around with the dogged out motor just for the experience and see if i can get a little more fire in it.

and since it's basic junk I lose nothing in trying.

Re: question

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 8:15 pm
by OL Mike
Image I found this . I thought you would like to see it. It show how the brushes get burned up

Re: question

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 9:16 pm
by sirslotsalot

Re: question

PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 9:40 am
by sirslotsalot

Re: question

PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 1:37 pm
by sirslotsalot
Good points & pics shackel. I agree on open motors rather than sealed cans or at least a can with access to the brushes is good. I have mabuchi-style boxer motors that have access to the brushes for lubing and you can remove the end bell easily to do comm work. They are my favorite motor especially for 1/43 scratch-builds. I never had a problem with them cleaning/maintaining them. They run a long time.