Home Racing World

Had a thought and was wondering if anyone had tried using the PETG Natural (clear) filament? Some would call it a brain fart but what if after extruding a print you were to smooth out the window areas of a print and then buff it out with plastic polish? It works with machined Plexiglass parts so why not this stuff. So I presented the idea to my filament Supplier and they hadn't tried that but did try the clear nail polish trick. This might mean that the model may need to be printed upside down to keep the support material off of the inside of the window areas. I think a test just might be in order for a try, what do you think?

Agree that PETG needs to be evaluated.
I know someone who has used it to make flat "stained glass" looking prints. Pretty cloudy.
Having said that....I don't know any details....supplier, filament, settings, thickness, post processing, anything. So it's a possibility. I would think that layer boundaries wouldn't polish out, but what do I know?

However....I don't have a heated bed......

Maybe I need one.....

I use it for vaccuform and get it from an industral supplier in 4ftx8ft sheets.
It would be interesting to see if its available for 3d printing.
Bob

"However....I don't have a heated bed......" per Chappyman66

Just a thought, Have you tried using the wife's hair dryer to preheat the platform prior to printing? I've had to use the glue stick before each print with the PETG since it just sticks to good to the platform.

Nope, I haven't done anything to try and heat the bed first. I probably could, but for the price of a better printer I can get the heated bed. I am basically lazy......

The guy who prints PETG says the layers cause the cloudiness.....but I am more than willing to be proven wrong. Different types of printers may be the answer.

As far as using PETG for stuff other than windows....rock on!

I was just going to try it at the 260c extrusion temp and see what happens. After talking to myself, we came up with the idea that the cloudiness is caused by the adhesion between layers, but then its just a thought that I might try. I was once told that no one could get a 72" rear discharge mower to not mulch and windrow but I managed to prove them wrong by trying some off the wall ideas so for that reason I thought I would try it again since I'm stuck at home while being on the mends from disc surgery on my neck again.

I absolutely endorse a test....try something like a little windscreen for the Porsche 356 or a Cobra and let's see what happens!

One of my coworkers who prints a lot of PETG is looking at PETT as a clearer product.
He has ordered some from these guys -
http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html
Some way down the page there is an interesting drawing showing light path through the material.

The outcome, whether you use PETG or PETT is that for the clearest start you want the largest nozzle (0.8mm if you can do it) and to print a single width with as little squishing as you can get away with.

They also talk about this resin coating and have a cool picture!

http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html

Anyway interesting stuff as I am still looking at vacforming windscreens and glass bits.

Mark

That's interesting looking, yes.
I was wondering if Future would be similar, as I have had some luck clearing super glue crazing with a liypolish and some future.....

The trouble I find with future is that it yellows.
Although that might make for a cool windscreen tint!

Mark

Well I gave it a try and decided that after a week it was just too much work and ordered a vacuum forming machine.

And to add insult to my test the support material was more clear than the model after much sanding and polishing.