I would implore you to modify, polish up, or just add your own twists and or versions of this set up. What I am showing you is not a scale replica of anything out there in the real world, but it will come pretty close for those willing to squint just a little, and cock your head and say, Hey! the wheels are steering on that slot car!
All that being said, this is the start.
Materials list:
3/16" brass tubing about three inches long
3/16" Square tubing
2mm brass rod or 1.5 mm linoleum tacks brass
1/8" brass tubing
2 guide screws
optional light gauge brass sheet or stick .025-.045
Lets get started!
cut a piece of brass tubing about 1 1/2" long, this will vary on vehicle track width.
Mark the ends just in from each end, leaving enough room for a 2mm rod (kingpin)
Drill a clearance hole for the 2mm rod on one end, I use a wood block and drill clear into the wood.
Push one of your brass tacks or a 2mm rod into the axle and on in to the wood.This will align the axle holes as you drill the other side by keeping the axle from spinning or tilting.
Next you want to cut a piece of the 3/16" square tube. angle cut it first, angle is not critical.We will also be drilling a 2mm clearance hole through the top as shown for our kingpin. The red shaded area will be removed with the dremel to allow it to slip over the axle tube.
Drilling for the kingpin and tyrod hole is best done before cutting the steering knuckle loose, spacing on between these holes will vary from car to car but the closer they are, the easier it is to hook to your guide later on.
This is a terrible picture and I will replace it when I get done here, but this is what we want to end up with.it shows the side removed to fit over the end of the axle, this will make up our steering knuckle assembly.
Two 1/4" long pieces of 1/8" tubing can now be soldered to the face of each steering knuckle. these will form the spindle for the wheels to mount on. They must be cut to length after determining what the wheel hub depth is, and a guide screw can threaded into the end of the tubing to hold the wheel in place.if using insert wheels, they can be hollowed out from the backside to clear the screw head.
There will be two of these, one left side and one right side, It makes a difference when you cut out the side of the square tubing, if you mess up. you will have to make another, it wont work on the wrong side.Both of them should now slide over your axle,and can be pinned for a test fit, and to measure for you drag link.
There are at least two choices here for your draglink, A 2mm brass rod with peened ends, or a flat brass sheet. one will require soldering a piece of 1/8" tubing to the center, the other only requires three holes be drilled, and the shape cut out.
Either of these will work, one needs only to cut the 2mm brass rod to size of the kingpins,and tyrods for whichever one you choose,and peen them on a steel plate or vise till they mushroom just enough to hold in place,yet still turn freely.
Modifying your guide. This is tricky,It works best if you are in process of building your chassis when you add the front end, guides need to be long enough and close enough to add a pin to the rear of them in a vertical fashion to engage the draglink.
the easiest way I have found, and there are other ways as well, is to heat a small pin,or piano wire, and slowly push it into the deck of the guide as deep as you can. it can be used as is if stiff enough, or it can be epoxied for added security.
the whole assembly can be soldered in to your chassis at this point, or polished up and ground and made show worthy.
This front end assembly wont make your car go faster, it wont make it handle any better. these parts could all be made from printed plastic or laser cut from stainless steel, or any number of other ways I am sure. But if you are an oval racer, and you just want to watch your old Ford Turning into the corner and tail end walking way out looking like the poor driver is fighting to keep control, then this a cheap, scratch builders brass way of doing it.
hope this helps anybody!
Bob
