TruSpeed MT II PWM Controller

[Slot_It_bob]

I recently ordered this controller from Slot Car Corner. I ordered the High Amp version to better handle the 1/24 cars I race occasionally.
Of course SCC was great to deal with, thanks Bob and Steve. But my communication with Truspeed is was what really made me decide to buy this controller.
Truespeed has an outstanding website, but the owner of Truspeed, was always quick to answer my questions and did so thoroughly and clearly.

The unit features a compact, rigid handle that is very comfortable. I really like the two finger trigger. The control knobs are clearly marked but the type could be a bit larger, but I think there function is intuitive and they are turn clockwise to increase the values. There is a full power relay close to the hook-ups, with LEDs to indicate function. The wiper function is smooth. So far I have run one race a flexi event and the controller worked as expected. We have a 1/32 6 hour enduro in two weeks that I am looking forward to.


Features: (All Options)

Dual Polarity Option (Current rating of 8A peak and 3A running)
High Power Option (Current rating of 15A peak and 8A running) (Specify Positive or Negative Wiring when ordering)
Plug-in Replaceable Power Drive Board (Dual Polarity or High Power Option) click for animation
PWM Drive and Brake Control
Brake adjustment
HO Mode Switch to control brakes for High Magent Downforce cars, or cars with high natural braking effect.
Acceleration Control
Sensitivity adjustment. (with automatic CURVE)
LAUNCH Switch for live start launch control
Trigger return spring tension adjustment
Optional Trigger Throw Adjustment
User replaceable No-Screw Terminal for cables
New User-Changeable Single and Double Finger Trigger
Now with 36 step wiper element and 9 point contact
Auto reset fuse for sustained over-current protection for Dual Polarity version and 16A fuse for High Power Version.
LED with triple function

Operating instructions:
Features and operating guide:

Brake control:

(Turn Clockwise to increase Braking)

In NORMAL and HO MODE a single rotary control sets the braking strength from full brakes to a gentle braking action.
For cars with high magnet force or with high natural braking effect, this Brake will usually be set to minimum and the HO MODE selected so that brakes are controlled by the HO BRAKE MODE on the middle control (explained below)
The HO and NORM select switch is located on the rear fascia under the LAUNCH button. (The switch is recessed so that it can't be accidentally switched during a race)

Acceleration and HO Brake control:

(Turn Clockwise to increase acceleration in NORMAL MODE and to increase simulated Brakes in HO MODE)

In NORMAL mode this control sets the rate of acceleration. The idea is that even though the trigger may have been snatched quickly to full throttle, the controller will only feed the power to the car at the rate set by the ACC control. This way you can prevent wasted time during snaking of the rear of car due to loss of traction as you exit a corner, or the guide lifting out of the slot with powerful motors.
In HO mode this control becomes a Brake Simulation adjustment for those cars that stop almost immediately even with no brakes applied. Some motors, even without high magnet attraction to the rails, also stop too quickly. The idea is that though the trigger has been released, the power only comes off at a rate set by this control. Once the controller is no longer feeding power the normal brakes will be applied at the rate you have set under BRAKE CONTROL as above. (For these high magnet cars this brake setting will usually be set to minimum)

Sensitivity control:

(Turn Clockwise to increase Sensitivity)

This adjusts the trigger wiper sensitivity to enable you to set the controller feel for any car or track condition. For those used to resistor controllers, it will feel as if the Ohms are adjustable from about 15 up to 70. There is a built-in CURVE control circuit which works automatically together with the sensitivity adjustment to give quick and easy settings. As the Sensitivity is turned up, so the initial start speed also rises slightly to match.

The little pre-set adjustment called START SPEED on the right hand side of the wiper element provides an adjustment for the range of the sensitivity control by changing the initial start speed just as the trigger is squeezed. If the THROW ADJUSTMENT option has been fitted, then, when the trigger is released for braking, it only goes back as far as your throw adjustment has been set, so the start speed can be made quite high with a combination of these controls.

LAUNCH Switch :

While pressed IN, this switch cuts the feed to the car and motor, even if the trigger is pulled. Once released the power feeds in at whatever point the trigger has been pulled to, but at the rate set by the ACCELERATION control. The idea is that your trigger is already pulled in on the start line so that all you need to do is release the switch to give you a quicker start from the line.

Trigger Return Spring Tension and Optional Throw Adjustments:

Spring Tension: Under the Trigger is the adjustment Screw. It operates against a cam arm that pulls the return spring. Turn clockwise to increase tension and anti-clockwise to reduce it. (you can see it work through the clear handle)

Throw Adjust: Through the access hole in the rear fascia is the throw adjustment screw. This sets the position that the trigger returns to when released for braking. Turn clockwise to move the stop point further in. (you will see the trigger move as you screw it in and out) The adjustment sets the amount of travel for the trigger by moving the position of the Brake contact. The further in you set it, the higher the start-up speed of the car, because, as the brake releases, the trigger is already some way across the element.

Power LED :

LED Power Indicator. (BLUE for POSITIVE WIRED Track and RED for NEGATIVE WIRED Track.)

Full Power Relay:

In this model the relay is moved to the small box at the very end of the cable. Inside the box are two 10A 5x20mm standard fuses in a clip-in mounting for easy changing. Also there are Red LED indicators to show when the fuses blow. A Blue LED shows when the relay is active at full power.

Wiring Colours:

WHITE Power in. (Positive or Negative from the Power Supply)
BLACK Output. (Power from the controller to the track)
RED Brake. (Negative or Positive from the Power Supply)

Power and Current Ratings:

High Current Option: (Optional Positive or Negative Track Wiring) (Specify your preference in the notes when ordering)

Drive stage will handle 12A stall current and around 6A running current.
The auto rest fuse is replaced with a slow blow 10A axial fuse in this case to reduce losses across it.
The Full Power Relay Option provides a 12A relay contact at the end of cable as close to the plug connectors as possible. This gives you all the available power at full throttle by reducing the loss along the cables.

Plug-in Replacement Power Board: (click for video)

Undo the handle casing screws and remove the casings. On the back of the main Board is the Power Drive Board.
Undo the 3 M2 nuts using an M4 Nut wrench and unplug the Power Board. (it will slide over the threaded sections as the 4 pins unplug from the socket.)
Plug in the replacement board (or the high power option) and secure it again with the 3 M2 Nuts.

Additional images for this product show the power board both in place and removed, showing the nuts and driver.

Maintenance:

Once you feel a scratchy operation or can hear squeaking then it is advisable to apply a small amount of switch Cleaner/Lubricant (such as Servisol Super 10) to the wiper element board. This will keep it smooth, light and maintain the contact integrity
Be sure not to bend the cable at the exit of the handle. The wiring will break from metal fatigue after a while and cause intermittent operation. Wind the cable into a gentle coil and it will last.

[HomeRacingWorld]

Thanks for the report. Good to hear about the other brands out there.

Also good about hearing the customer service.

[Dangermouse]

Thanks for posting

2 chaps at the club have MT I controllers - I have had a few runs with them and whilst looking at Steve's website was trying to decide whether to get the MT I or the MT II might contact Truspeed

cheers
David

[SlotCarCorner]

[Slot_It_bob]

Participated in my first long race with the controller today. It was a 6 hour enduro, the MT I I worked flawlessly.

[Czar]

I just looked at the SCC website for these controllers. It looks like the digital controllers are quite different than the analogue controllers. Is it too difficult to add more sophisticated features to digital, or is digital just not taken as seriously as analogue?

[Dangermouse]

I was wondering if digital has different requirements electrically speaking as there is always current to the track.

[Slot_It_bob]

I wanted to shout out the excellent support Steve Hills of Truespeed has given me. I have been firing off various questions about my controller as I gain more experience. Steve always responds quickly and with complete answers to my questions. My lap times havd improved and thats the sort off hard proof that confirms i made a good decision.

[gascarnut]

IMO, TruSpeed are making the best slot car controllers on the planet right now.

I started out with a used PWM 1, then graduated to a new PWM 2, and it is my go-to controller for everything from 1/32 plastic cars all the way to 1/24 scale Eurosport machines. It handles them all with no need for extra "bolt-ons" or enhancements, never gets hot and is as smooth as butter.

The only thing I would caution those who use alligator clips for connection - make sure you have decent fuses in case you hook up wrong or short one clip to another.