Trying my hand at local 1/24 drags - building a Hurst Olds!

[TuscoTodd]

A number of guys have started playing with what could be somewhat considered a "spec" 1/24 drag class with minor rules to keep things close competition wise - but allowing for maximum fun! :D

The class requires use of the following:
- Chassis: either a Parma Edge or wire/brass scratch built
- Motor: Pro Slot S16D (PS-2001) only (must retain stock arm/magnets)
- Gearing: 48 pitch gears only - ratio up to builder
- Body: No vacuum formed bodies - must use 1/25 or 1/24 model / hard body
- Tires: Open

With those parameters in mind, I picked up parts at the hobby shop to go with a model body I had here at the house...

Chassis starting point...




Body starting point...



:banana-dance:

[4424ever]

OOOH Todd 13/54 with a .300 wide tire should get you in the 1.1 sec range around 50-55 mph I prefer the WRP over the edge, have a blast :banana-dance: PS through in some gold dust brushes and Champion lite springs then advance your end ell as much as you can

[TuscoTodd]

Appreciate the info!
As a starting point, I picked up the following:
- Pro-Track 5/8" hub, 1-1/16" x .435" (for 1/8" axle)
- 9-32 gears (we have to run 48 pitch Parma King crown gears as one of the rules) - this ratio, or 9-33 was what a number of the builds that were there were using, which is why I went with them for a starting point. :)

Based on your suggestion though, it looks as though I may be able to go notably steeper in the gearing department as my ratio works out to 3.55 (9-32) verses the 4.15 (13-54) you noted. :think:

On the motor, originally the rules were going to go require a sealed version motor. After discussion though, the consensus ended up being to use the Pro-Slot balanced arm, non-sealed version. The stock can/bushings/arm/magnets have to be retained, but being non-sealed allows the motors to be "tuned" via builder preference (brushes, springs, timing) to add a bit of fun to things.
(So definitely appreciate the tips on the brushes/springs/timing)

Of the cars that were there for shake down runs Wednesday night, elapsed times ranged from 1.18 to 1.33 (the 1.33 was on a fresh build that improved with each run made) - speeds varied notably more, ranging from 37.x to 48.x mph.

With this class being strictly a "fun run" class, with no trophies, $, etc - I think it is going to be a riot!

I am looking forward to seeing how my Olds build is going to fair - as I didn't go with the normal "slammed drag car only" look - but went with more of a Street / Strip ride height and rake when I was setting up the mounts. :)

While waiting on tire glue to dry on the Hudson, I got the body is assembled, mount holes made and the base silver coat applied and drying. :)

Here is a shot of the body before heading for paint...



:banana-dance:

[mattb]

As in all racing when everything else is equal, aero makes the difference. A small car (chopped 34 coupe-no fenders) will go thru the air faster than a big Olds.

[TuscoTodd]

Matt - no doubt that the G-body and the stance I am giving it will have no aero advantage, but being an Olds fan - I just HAD to build it. :D

The good news is, most of the builds the guys are doing thus far aren't aero focused either. :)
Here are a couple of the cars that were making fun runs Wednesday:










For my Olds build, a little more progress! She is now wearing the lower silver color!
:banana-dance:

[4424ever]

Make sure your body mounts have little slop except for the cross bar floating up and down in the rear. A loose body can cause catastrophic events at the top end don't ask me how I know but some windows were never found Don't worry too much about aero as long as your nose is down my hands down most consistent car for bracket racing is a 69 Hurst. It ran 1.2s every day of the week DAM I wish we still had a strip around here. I have eleven drag cars sitting in the dungeon with tires drying up just itching for more track time

[TuscoTodd]

Appreciate the tip on the mounts! I have them set up pretty snug at the moment, with the the inner radius keeping the cross bars pretty well held in place vertically and the pins keeping the front/back movement to nil. :)
Cool to hear about the '69 - but bummer to hear that there is nowhere for you to run it. :(
(Would be great to see a pic or two!)

Speaking of pictures - the black top coat is now on and curing! Decals next!

[4424ever]

PM me an email and I'll send you some pics later

[dge467]

Looks great Todd! Those other cars are pretty awesome too!

[mattb]

Fun....not big dollars or have to win, just playing with scale toy cars. I like that!!

[BIG E]

Very cool, Todd. You should be able to compete well in "spec" type drags against the guys running scratchbuilt wire chassis with your PARMA Edge chassis, properly set up and assembled. I don't remember seeing in the post if it's a full 55 foot 'strip or not. The Pro Slot motor is a good spec motor that we've used in drag, oval, and road racing over here on Long Island. Keeping the gearing to the 48 pitch stuff will really help to hold the costs down, while allowing enough options to experiment with gear and tire sizes. My PARMA Edge car ran very well in the bracket racing wars, using a rebuilt older pink endbell PARMA 16D, 1/8" axle, oilite bushings and 48 pitch gears.
One other thing I did just to give me another car to throw out there in the brackets was to take one of my PARMA FCR road racing cars with the Deathstar 16D motor and put a set of vintage COX wheels on the front, narrowed up a set of 1" diameter rear Pro Track tires to 1/4", lock the guide straight and run it. I had the gearing at 9-35, didn't need much bite, or a wheelie bar, and usually ended up wiping away most of the glue on the starting line. With a "16.50" (1.65 seconds) dial in, I frustrated a lot of guys with the faster cars as they were leaving the starting line when I was within 10 feet of the finish! This was on a full 55 foot 'strip, but most of those guys were pretty good slot car drag only racers, and if they cut a good light they would be right there at the finish. If they red lighted - oh well, ya can't jump the tree! I was drag racing just to have another night of fun at the commercial track. Only once did I make it to the final round, and it was with the FCR car. You guessed it- I red lighted! :>)
Hard bodies are definitely the way to go to keep the "model car racing" thing happening. And the choice of 1/24-25 scale car model kits available is tremendous! Nothing kills it for me like a vacuum formed blob (no offense to the guys who do beautiful finishing jobs on Lexan bodies). Funny thing is, when I was running the PARMA Edge car, the original factory painted blue Lexan Mustang Pro Mod body* was still mounted on it! I never got around to setting up a hard body to run with the chassis, as I was spending so much time with the 1/24 oval and road racing cars. Hard bodies in those series really take a beating! The hard core drag guys call them "roundy round" racers. For the past year or so, my large scale stuff's been sitting idle while I concentrate on HO racing with a few different clubs here on the Island, both pancake motor chassis and some limited inline type cars.

Have FUN rippin' up the 1/24 drags. Enjoy! -- Ernie :>)

* The only reason I even had the new PARMA Edge RTR car - some guy at a slot car show asked me if I would take it in trade for one of the HO cars I had for sale. The Edge car was $55 new, which was less than I was asking for the HO car - it was a FORD, it was blue - so the deal was done! - E :>)

[TuscoTodd]

Ernie -
The track is 55' - so the set up info people have been sharing should be directly applicable and has been appreciated! :)
We haven't gotten to the point of looking at "dial in" type racing yet as most of us all so green at this that there is only one guy that consistently hits anywhere close to a good light - the rest of us need a LOT of practice yet - but the intention is to eventually get to that point, as it looks like all of the cars are going to be in a pretty tight range as far as ET.

This hard body class should prove to be pretty entertaining. Between the WIDE variety of kits available and rules that have been established with a focus on fun with limited expense, it should be something that everyone can enjoy.


I did manage to make more progress on the Olds body yesterday - as the decals are now on and drying! Hopefully, I will be spraying clear tonight and then it will be on to adding lens and glass!
:banana-dance:

[BIG E]

The Olds is lookin' real good, Todd!
FYI - we were running car batteries on the 1/24 'strip.
About 20 feet of shutdown, with shorted out braid (to help braking) and a TON of glue. It's like flypaper - YUK!
When you mount the body - allow it to float on the mounts - don't make it a "brick". This helps isolate vibration, allows the chassis to work independently of the body, and helps SAVE the body if the car makes it to the end of the shutdown area! Here's a tip - small (bendable) pins and/or Velcro are your friend.
Good luck! -- Ernie :>)

[chappy]

Nice looking build Todd. If shes as fast as she looks you should be smoking sponge lol
Bob

[GASSERMAN]

That's looking really nice looking Todd. Will you put clear on it? Bob........