I sure hope you figure out the tuning on these! I’ve got four of those Tamiya Mini kits I’m hoping to make a few bucks on if you can make this work...
Great comments and enthusiasm on this thread!
One suggestion I’ll make as to tuning a car for an unusual class of racing, is that these cars don’t need to handle like a Slot It. Sure, when you are driving by yourself, you want to drive that car close to your abilities with a fast car. But with these class cars, I suggest the challenge - and the resulting satisfaction- comes from racing closely with other cars of similar caliber. If the car needs to be nursed around the track, all the better indication of the driver’s skill. Let the character of the prototype come thru in the model, body roll, understeer, slower acceleration- so what if the other cars in the class have the same issues, you’ll be racing door to door with them trying to squeeze out an advantage.
I’d go so far as to suggest you require 10 degrees of body roll and about 30 grams of weight glued to the underside of the roof. Since you are challenging the standard proxy rules (again,: 1/32 Sprite >1/32 Minis >1/29 Sprites...) with front-wheel drive, add a few more challenges to make theses slotcars behave like, real cars.
A week ago, I was at the Daytona 24 hour Historics. I brought my camera and new zoom.
Take this car: Ford Mustang GT350. Unlike most on this site, I really have no visual interest in this car - I like the look of Datsun 510s, or Porsche 914-6s or Can Am cars or modern LMP cars. But, V8 hammering through the banking or body on frame wallowing through a corner fighting for grip, I start to love the GT350, I can see and feel it fighting physics. Modern LMP cars - as futuristic as they look, sound like vacuum cleaners and behave like them in the corners: no physical drama at all.
So, give me less Slot It / LMP Car, and more Proxy / GT350.
Unsolicited advice from your proxy partner,
JT
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by glasshorsevh » Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:37 am 
