Cyclone build and tune

[FC47]

Wobble, that’s where I cut the front of mine too, then fit the spoiler, it’s all to the chassis, painted today, grille will be with the body, body primered and sanded, reshoot tomorrow...then drop on that Apple Red. Can’t wait.
Have fun!

[slothead]

It looks like if you file down the front body mount and use shorter screws you can lower the front end. I made custom front and rear body mounts out of double sided permanent foam tape and balsa wood, but only used the rear one. The front body mount has to account for the guide housing on the Pioneer Charger chassis and the front bumper and grille.

To get the best look with wheels and have a reliable supply of silicone tires I'm seriously going to consider trying a Carrera Torino chassis for a test build. To me the Carrera classic NASCAR wheels & tires look great on the Cyclone as seen in Ken's builds. Just need to figure out the body mount issue and if it's a good option buy another Torino or two while still available at the base price.

[Wobble]

[slothead]

I washed the body in warm soapy water (Dawn) and dried it with a paper towel. Seemed fine to me but paint wouldn't stick to part of the roof and rear deck where there was still some release agent. When I scrubbed those areas with a soapy toothbrush the red filled in where the base coats didn't.

Waay recommends using Bleche-White for cleaning the body. I got a spray bottle at Walmart to use on my next Cyclone body. Better to overdo than miss anything during the paint prep.


Also re-read Ken's posts about applying the decals. His wrinkled when he applied clear coat and he had to strip a bunch of bodies and start over. I haven't applied any decals yet and when I do will likely skip the clear coat. Waay remembered Future wax dulled white paint and gave it a yellow tint.

[proxieken]

[FC47]

Hey, yep, I’ve kept up on the entire thread, :text-thankyouyellow:
I didn’t get the airbrush out this time,
but a lot of paints suggest recoat within brief times, or, if you let it gas off wait 48 hours or so. Me, I let em sit, just me. Use the same brand of paints in each job.
Even the oils from your hands can give fish eye spots, I’ve used Dawn for years, keep my hands clean and touch things little, then a lint free cloth, bit of T-shirt damp with alcohol, swipe it a few times overall...never a blemish.
I have to reshoot a little because I forgot to blend the lower corners of the rear valence and the rear quarters, and a bit of flash in a wheel well.

Ken, they look great- that must be a flurry of a activity man!!
I can only sit and decal when it’s quiet and no rush, or when the mood hits :P
:dance: keep em goin

[crossovercrazy]

Ken,

Would it be smart to dip your freshly painted body in Future within 3 hours, then apply the decals, and then dip it in Future again?

In either case, is it more tricky when you paint a two tone paint - do both differing coats (including masking) and decals have to fit within your three-hour scheme?

[HomeRacingWorld]

Suggestion: I would not "dip" a body. BRUSH on the Future. You risk the decals sliding and falling off when dipping.

Just my experience. The great Mark Thomas educated me on this rather quickly. Future is self leveling. Brush on and walk away. Once dry, another coat.

[crossovercrazy]

Harry,

Everybody I knew just let the decals dry, and then dipped them. If you use a brush while the decals are still loose, I assume you have to use a pretty light hand to keep them from moving from the brush strokes too?

[waaytoomuchintothis]

There are no brush strokes at all. You float the Future on the car, liberally. That's what the levellers in Future are for. Not only is dipping a huge waste of Future, it can't work as well, because you are asking the product to do something is is not at all designed to do. Just brush it on liberally, and leave it alone.

Even if you try to save the excess Future after dipping, it has been exposed to the air and will not last as long on the shelf when you funnel it back into the bottle. Keeping the bottle air tight is everything in keeping Future clear and viable. I have Future on my shelf that has been 6 years in use, and not yellowed, not cloudy. Take our word for it and stop dipping altogether.

[slothead]

[Wobble]

The Carrera Dodge Avenger COT chassis is about 6mm (1/4") wider than the opening under the Cyclone body but there is enough ribbing in it to make it narrower without weakening it a lot. However because of the lower stance of the COT I think the chassis would be quite visible as the axle width would prevent the wheels being tucked up inside the arches. The Dodge Avenger is the only Carrera COT Nascar I have so unsure if their other models have the same chassis although mine looks the same as your photo. I think the Torino or Pioneer chassis has got to be easier to work with.

[proxieken]

I was looking through my junk box and came across an old 1960 Plymouth Fury chassis. I think I purchased this at one time deeply discounted to use the digital chip.
I also found a set of Carrera Mopar street axles I had purchased from Victory Lap when they were in business.

Together, they are forming the foundation for a D132 street build with lights.



Notice how the front mounting posts are behind the front axle. This means no trimming of the front bumper is needed. It also allows for fitting the bulbs for the front lights very easily. The rear had a large overhang which I cut off.



Wheel base seems about perfect.

I have one of the custom Fury cars on my track and it is extremely fast. The conversion work is as simple as snipping a bit off the rear of the chassis.

I would actually like to find 2 more of these to make D132 cars with lights. If anyone has any leads on a D132 version of any type let me know. I have a couple of sets of axels I can swap out.

[R/TRandy]

slothead
A couple of pictures of the body over a COT chassis. Would be a lot of work, but could be done.

[slothead]

Randy - thanks for the photos. The chassis would have to be cut in two somewhere near the polarity switch and extended with rods. I'd probably use JB Weld to hold everything in place. And the chassis would need to be narrowed too. I'm still thinking it through.

Building a custom styrene chassis doesn't solve the problem either because of the wheels & axles issue.

I think the Carrera classic NASCAR chassis is the best option because the wheels are correct for that era and aftermarket tires are available. Only the most recent Torino releases are still affordable.

FYI - just ordered a #92 Carrera Torino, the Pikes Peak car driver by Bobby Unser. Will most likely use the chassis for a Cyclone build.