Working without a safety net - FPF Mk2 Spridget

[Ember]

Sanding... Filling... Priming.... Sanding... Filling.... Priming... And on it goes.

It's decision time folks. Sprite or Midget? The cast in grill is Sprite. The white metal grill is Midget. I'm leaning toward the white metal grill because no paint will ever look right against the white metal bumper. Of course, that means I have to cut a hole in the nose. I knew I should've taken some thickness out there.

I've also got to fashion an interior for it and try to make sense of some of the slightly out of shape/alignment bits on the body.

[Ember]

Midget it is then. Now, where did I put my razor saw?

[Ember]

So.... Here's the chassis as she stands.


Bare chassis is fast and fun on my track.

But dang it's small.

Sitting beside SCX Lancer Evo


Paint. Well, first attempt at paint. Dropped it while clear coating. So, stripped it again. Waiting for the resin to firm up. I'll respray it tomorrow. Too hot and windy today.

[Ember]

They're super sweet. Can squeeze them under a lot of little buses.

[Ember]

Well. I think I'm finally back to where I was. A few coats of baby blue back on. Trouble with fine coats of colour in this warm is that things dry so quickly it's hard to be sure which parts you've done and which you haven't.

I've used Tamiya paints to mix this colour because I simply didn't have enough water based white to use as a base. So Tamiya white tinted with a little Tamiya clear blue. Probably about 20 parts white and 1 part blue. Reduced with Windex.

When I painted the car the first time I was unsure of the colour because it looks almost white when wet, but darkens quite a deal as it dries.
I'll remove the masking soon and let it dry for the afternoon. Hope to shoot a couple of thin coats of clear this evening.

[Ember]

I had to start this one and get it done because I've finished up with a few other proxies at the same time. Also got a diorama commission that needs to be dealt with by April. Feast or famine?

[Ember]

No. I don't choke, but things can get a little chaotic.

[FootScoot]

Another solution to fitting pinions on motors after soldering them in the chassis is to solder the pinions on themselves. All you need is a 2mm reamer, soldering iron, solder, and acid flux. First tin the motor shaft with the flux and solder, just a light tinning is needed, protect the motor bushing with oil or a small piece of cardstock paper fitted on the shaft against the can and bushing. Once the shaft is tinned take the pinion, ream it with the reamer and oil it well, or lightly grease the teeth. Put a very small drop of flux in the shaft hole, set pinion on shaft, wipe all excess solder off of the iron, touch it flat against the pinion gear so it will heat evenly. When the pinion gets hot it will slide to any position you desire on the motor shaft. If you do happen to get solder in the pinion teeth just remove it with a small file or X-acto knife.