Slot Car Photography

[fotodoug]

Manual mode is actually easier to control...I thought you were in aperture priority! In manual you can control both the aperture and shutter speed independently. I'm not familiar with your camera, but usually there are two adjustment wheels close to the shutter trip button...one in front of the button, the other behind...one will control aperture, the other, the shutter. Using a remote is good...one less thing to worry about! I just did a little research, and cs2 doesn't image stack very well. I use cs5. There are image stacking programs out there that are free, but I haven't used them. If you aren't using image stacking, and using max f stop, you are kind of at the mercy of lighting conditions...unless you can bring extra light to balance the light behind the subject, with the light on the subject. You could buy a small, white, photo umbrella, and a bright, daylight balanced bulb...that might add enough balanced light to enhance your subject in early/late day sun (background). For example, when you set up your diorama, let's say the light on the background (like the mottled light in the trees) is f36 at 1/50 sec...but your diorama is in the shade, and the light on that is f36, 1/5 sec...that means you have to bring an additional 3 stops of light to your diorama to balance the scene. An additional light can do that, but you would need a power source. There are ways around the exposure problems...all of them take a lot of work. One is to take two exposures, one for the subject, one for the background. You use the two exposures together, but on different layers. This takes much longer because you have to erase much of one of the layers that isn't the exposure you want...ugh! The one that makes the most sense is the one that you would use if you were photographing a real car. You expose for the subject, and let the background go over exposed. That might cause a little flare, but it will look REAL, not perfect. The photos you are doing look like real cars, but if they were real cars, you would have different problems! The changes I made to your photos were only exposure and contrast. Curve adjustment comes later...when you are VERY picky about exposure on the scene...you can copy the same photo on a bunch of layers and change the curve on all of them in different ways...it's endless! Any of the shots I've done for these forums have had image stacking, colour correction, dust/crap removal, exposure, and contrast. Most of my cars are racers, not shelf queens. The only time I don't shoot with a lens shade is when it won't fit between the lens and the subject...use a lens shade!!!

[fotodoug]

Here is an example of what I am talking about with exposure...

...and letting the background go into over exposure...

...again, personally, I think it looks real.

[whitworthnut]

[Ember]

The low angled light with the sun playing around the uprights of the pit building is a winner.

I am very much enjoying this masterclass as I am not a technician by any stretch.

[fotodoug]

For some reason, the last shots aren't showing for me...................?

[whitworthnut]

Do you mean all 8 shots Doug? Any one else having a problem?

[fotodoug]

None of the latest shots show for me!

[miveson]

Fantastic thread this one...... very enjoyable....

Peter - I can't quite believe your diorama - looks absolutely brilliant.

I have to agree with Ember, I'm liking the shot with the sun hitting the poles and people. It adds some depth and contrast which makes it so much more interesting.

Great tips as well from Doug...... never thought of using the hood so I might see how that goes.....

I can see all the photos......

[whitworthnut]

Don't know what to say Doug, other than maybe my server isn't talking to yours, which should be a temporary problem. Let me know if it persists. If you still can't see them tomorrow, I can post the urls or email them to you. I would really like your opinion.

[whitworthnut]

Ember/Miveson - sometimes you luck in with a shot. Those are the types that I strive for but they're really hard to get in this scale since more often than not they just wash out the highlights. The timing was right, but only because I shot for about an hour as the sun gradually went down. I took about fifty shots, at least half of which I actually liked. I edited to add a sepia/bw which I really like.

[Ember]

If you're only shooting 50 odd shots in an hour you're being lazy. ;) But then your li'l guys add a lot to set-up time I suppose. I'm a slacker and use exposure bracketing, + or - 1 f stop. I find the under exposed ones often make for a better background layer on a stack.

But it's only been since playing with the model shots that I've really come up against the limitations of my camera and my technique.

[fotodoug]

Peter, I can see them today! WOW WOW WOW!!! You're right...you ARE getting the hang of this!!!!! WELL DONE!!!!

[whitworthnut]

Thank you Doug. The key seems to be to find the right conditions, rather than try to change them or compensate in the field. It has been an interesting exercise looking back at the three sets of photos. The first was taken at mid day with light cloud cover, the second in the early morning (8:00) and the third evening through dusk (7:30 - 9:00). The best results for controlled drama seem to be early evening with a weak, but evident sun. That's when I got the nice interplay of sun on the wood members without having them over exposed. I assume early morning (5:00 to 6:30) would produce the same results. Dusk and I assume dawn provide strong, even light with no direct rays to over expose things.

I'm really enjoying the learning curve. Your input is greatly appreciated.

[whitworthnut]

[Ember]

I've got some catching up to do. But not heading out in 2℃ to shoot little cars. You're going to be far off in the distance by the time winter is over.