Work has started on my Ferrari 458 GT2 and a couple questions have come to mind in regard to car prep and rules that I wanted to ask on the forum as I think they may be of interest to all:
1) Will all of the host tracks accommodate the stock Carrera guide blade depth? (ie - the one that came on my 458 GT2 would bottom out in Scalextric Classic / SCX / Eldon track). If the blades need to be trimmed - what is the max slot depth?
(for reference - the track I am potentially volunteering allows for full depth guides)
2) I didn't see it in the "allowed" tuning items, so I wanted to ask if it would be "ok" to use spacers/washers/etc to limit side to side axle play?
3) Is there a minimum ground clearance requirement? And if so - is it acceptable to "remove" material from the bottom of the chassis?
The reason I ask this is multi-fold... And while I'm not sure if this is something specific to the Ferrari 458 GT2 or all the GT class cars - but thought I would bring it up here as I think others may run into the same issue I am noticing and don't want to see anyone's car run into issues with dragging/bottoming/etc.
I was going to shoot for the kind of normal .050" min clearance type number... But being new to Carrera cars, I thought I should check to see what it was stock BEFORE doing anything like truing wheels, the stock tires, etc. This is where I was a bit surprised! Using feeler gauges and my set-up block, I found the raised (or lowered depending on your perspective) portion of the chassis for the rear most magnet pocket currently allows for just .056" clearance on my car before doing any truing!
Here is a shot of the rear magnet pocket area I am referring to:

or for an overall shot of the bottom of the chassis - here is a shot from the Homeracingworld review of this model here:
http://www.homeracingworld.com/c458bottomchassis1.jpg In checking the balance of the chassis clearance is .100" or more. While I am going with Paul Gage tires on my entry, which should start slight larger than the factory tires to allow truing without taking the magnet pocket below .050" ground clearance - it is conceivable those wanting to use the factory rubber could end up with less than .050" causing a potential for dragging, etc which will definitely have a negative effect on how their cars would perform in the proxy - which would be unfortunate. (if the offending area can be trimmed / then reinforced if need be - then it should be a non-issue)
4) Another clarification question that goes hand in hand with the clearance question - I am assuming that any weight that is added is to be "inside" the car/chassis. (ie - no lead, brass, etc stuck/attached to the bottom of the chassis)
5) And finally... Do the axles (the front axle in particular on my car) have to stay in their original installed location or is it acceptable as part of the "tuning" process / gluing the bushings in - to shim them up slightly to get more guide engagement / pick-up contact? (note: on my car even with removing the front tires off the wheels the car does not fully on the guide) Here is a shot of what I am referring to:

(For reference, just leaving the braid flat, there is an easy .070" between the braid and the block with everything as delivered)
Shimming the axle would be relatively simple for all to do - but if it isn't to be allowed, I completely understand and will just true the tires as small as possible to help the issue.
I "think" that is all the questions I have for now. Look forward to the "clarifications"! :D