Anglewinder or Sidewinder?

[Mitch58]

I have a Slot it Porsche that I changed the pod from an inline pod to an anglewinder. It runs very well, but I also have a sidewinder pod sitting here and was wondering if either has an advantage over the other or is it just personal preference.

[HomeRacingWorld]

Sidewinder is my preference over the anglewinder. I don't normally need a longer can motor, nor do I try and utilize the magnets in the motor can to act as traction aids. I also don't care for the amount of chatter or tire width restrictions anglewinders have. You can tune to reduce the chatter of course, but it simply takes more effort. My sidewinder Slot.it classics are so quiet and smooth it's almost scary and that's without much effort on my part.

But if you like using the larger motors and staying with the current tire widths then stay with your change.

Some of the "Pros" will disagree of course, this is just my simple home racer view. :)

[mikeinclover]

Not saying that I am a pro, I do agree with Harry one this one. Sidewinder is always my go to if I have a choice. We only run non magnet so the magnetic affect from the motor does not help. Most not all but most long can motors have to much torque for us.

[chappy]

I prefer sidewinder .
Easier to tune the car, less Ninco Hop. Thats good
I dont need to keep slew of different gears available,,,$$ saved
More flexability in tuning options on tires, thats good.

Having said that , our group 5 class races Racer Sideways (stock with anglewinder) with only tires as a change to urethanes.
we deal with the Ninco hop with bracing, and the cars are fast and driveable.

Bob

[chrisguyw]

Good advice from the prior posts, but it may be helpful if we knew how you intend/prefer to run your cars....as there are variables that come into play and they can be meaningful.....eg., do you run on plastic/wood tracks?, are the wood tracks tape/braid/magnetic braid?, is your track(s) tight and twisty, or open and fast?,what rules does you club have/not have?

In Europe, the favoured RTR set-up is anglewinder...based on the fact that most big events are run on plastic track (steel rails), and although the vast majority of races do not allow traditional traction magnets, the magnetic effect of the big magnets in the FK 180 type motors (some can generate 60gms of downforce or more), far outweighs any inherent issues with running an anglewinder. Additionally, the high torque levels offered by the FK180 type motors (longer stacks/bigger magnets) really help drag these cars along a steel track rail. Chassis set-up in this case rewards a very soft longitudinally flexing chassis, as the magnetic effect of the motor will cause the chassis to further bend towards the track, further increasing downforce. (it is very common in European events to see motor labels worn off/scratches in the can.
So, if this resembles what you/your club favours, an anglewinder is the way to go

The majority of my racing is done on wood tracks with either tape or non magnetic braid, so, like the above gentlemen, I favour a sidewinder set up.....it provides the most mechanically efficient gear orientation, has less "moment of inertia", and with the current "S" can motor choices, you will be able to power up to any degree you need. The lighter weight of the "S" or "130" motors, allows you to "weight" the car to your tracks/cars needs while still coming in at less overall weight than a similarly weight tuned AW. While the higher torque of the FK 180's can be argued to be an advantage on some tracks, the same effect can be closely achieved via gearing changes on an "S" can. Most (all) of the cars involved in "serious" high end wood track racing, incorporate a sidewinder set-up, and the lightest motors possible.

Both motor orientations have their place........where and how you race will dictate the most advantageous set-up.

Cheers
Chris Walker

[Modlerbob]

I like all of my slot.it cars the way they are made. Classic GT with sidewinder setup, modern LMP and group 5 with anglewinders and the group c cars with the inline configuration. The inline configuration makes it easier to alter gear ratios to suit the length of the straights on my track and my inline cars generally turn the quickest laps. I would never change the inline configuration on my Porsche 956s and 962s or on my Ferrari F40s and they are my quickest cars except for my LMP Lola with the anglewinder set up.

[Audi1]

I would go SW vs. AW; unless, as Chris points out, you're looking for some extra magnetic downforce on plastic or braid tracks that work with magnets. Easier to tune; no "AW hop " to tune out, etc. If I was to use a long can motor for non-mag racing, it would be in the IL configuration.

I do have a favorite long can motor............................

Allan

[Retro Racer 44]

There is one definite advantage not yet mentioned for the angle winder. Like an inline, the gear mesh is adjustable. I find sidewinders work great, but if you change the pinion or spur, you need to get an exact matched pair. Also when scratch building a sidewinder, it is more difficult to get the exact mesh, and if it is a bit off you need to start over as there is little chance for adjustment.

For this reason, my usual go to is either a pod for sidewinder to be sure of exact spacing, or an inline.

Cheers,

Keith

[HomeRacingWorld]

Thanks Mitch.

If you have not seen it...the above information from these folks is priceless.

[TuscoTodd]

This is VERY timely info for me as well - as I am getting ready to build my first non-inline chassis!
(to be used under the GT-40 I am building for the Ford vs. Ferrari proxy)
Appreciate all the info guys!!!

[chrisguyw]

[Mitch58]

Thanks guys. I took some cars down to a commercial track in Albany today. I noticed that the Porsche had a little high speed chatter with the Anglewinder pod. I think I'll switch it to a sidewinder and see if the chatter goes away. Of course we race at 10 volts on our tracks and this one was set at 13.5 volts so that could be part of the difference too.

[Audi1]

Chatter is more apt to be tire-related.

Allan

[HomeRacingWorld]

Hmmmmm, well. Yes, it certainly can be.

But that voltage difference counts :)

Because one common issue is simply too much motor. Combine it with over-voltage (anything over 12) and almost any car will chatter. Unless it's a brass beauty built by a craftsman as shown above. A chassis like that is built to withstand the higher revs and power and thus the speeds they produce.

Case #2452 :) Avant Slot Mirage. Tuned the best I could, profiled tires, etc. Still had a fair chatter with stock motor. Changed motor to milder MT5. No other mods. They are virtually silent.

By the way...I admire the wheel effort on that chassis. Those inserts are fitted about as clean as it gets.