by slothead » Tue Oct 27, 2015 12:45 pm
Very nice craftsmanship on that chassis. What are those hex things attached to the motor bracket, and how did you align them? I just got a Razor-Jon jig for laying out the lower rails, but need help figuring out how you set up the rear end stuff.
As for the 'can of worms', this is what I love most about slots, thinking about the possibilities. Yes, there is value in 'keeping it simple', but don't give up on creativity either. I would have thought that by now having free spinning front wheels that turned with the guide flag would be common place. This way the front wheels would help a car track through the corners rather than scrubbing off speed due to being misaligned as a car drifts and the inside vs outside speed mismatch. At some point marrying a brass chassis to 3D printed suspension parts will make this happen.
As for creating rear end stagger for an oval, this is something the late Tom Bryner and I talked about for over an hour one night. He was an advocate for carefully matching different sized rear tires so a car arc'd through a corner. This is almost a science with 1:1 sprint cars and can be fun to play around with on a slot car oval too. I use silicone-over-foam rear tires on my dirt modified cars on my very slick oval, but in some cases the grip they have was too much and cars would chatter or hop when powering through a corner. The solution I employ on some of my fastest cars is to mount an ever so slightly smaller silicone tire on the left side to go with the silicone-over-foam right rear tire. The inside tire slips just enough to let the outside tire provide full traction without any chatter, and the cars can power drift through a turn beautifully.
Now if we ever get to the point of suspensions and adjusting the camber of the right front tire for cornering stability it will be very much like setting up a real race car. Yes, I'll go take my meds now.
Slothead