Fly pinion gears

[slothead]

I just got 2 Fly Porsche 917K's I bought off HRW and when the rear axles would only turn a small way before jamming I investigated and found cracked pinion gears. The cars seem new and the pinions look stock so I assume this isn't an isolated issue. My only concern is how to obtain pinions that will fit on the motor shaft and mesh well with the stock spur gear (these are sidewinders).

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Slothead

[HomeRacingWorld]

[chappy]

Ditto Harry's advice. I would use a brass pinion , press fit over the lightly sanded or filed splines.
As Harry said , this is a common issue with the plastic pinions on a lot of makes.
if you go to far on the splines , consider Red Loctite or solder.
Good Luck
Bob

[Wobble]

In the past FLY often pressed brass pinions straight onto the splined shaft. I've done this myself at times without sanding or filing the splines.
If you prefer plastic pinions a Scalextric pinion will fit perfectly with little chance of splitting. Scalextric W8200 Pinion 11 teeth come in packs of 4.

[slothead]

Scalextric W8200 Pinion 11 teeth

Is this by any chance the same pinion found on Scalextric sidewinders such as their Trans Am cars?

If so I'll borrow them so I can get some holiday vacation time racing in with my new Fly cars while waiting for new ones to arrive given the current mail crunch.

Slothead

[Wobble]

[Audi1]

Welcome to "Fly land". For me, both the stock pinions and spurs are virtually useless. I always swap out the stock plastic gears for Slot.It brass/aluminum. After the swap, they, generally, run very well..........! Oh, you may also want to check for tire bind on the wheel wells..........................

Allan

[slothead]

Can you replace the spur gear and still use the Fly axle and wheels? I've never disassembled a 'press on' rear axle having heard about split or loose & wobbly plastic wheels afterwards.

I got some slot.it axles and spur gears at SCC awhile back but don't want to start doing upgrades on these cars because eventually I hope to have 12-15 GT enduro cars for a series and don't want any to out perform the others. I have purchased Fly, MRRC, Scaley, and Carrera cars recently and so far they are all pretty close. Actually, 2 stock Fly GT40s are the quickest on my track, even out doing a Carrera Cheetah on PG tires.

Slothead

[Dodgefarmer]

[HomeRacingWorld]

:text-yeahthat:

I will also stand by the advice on sanding the splines on the motor shaft for new brass pinion install. You CAN press one on, but you shouldn't. You may not split the pinion at first, but you will likely distort it. You will know when it has a wonderful sound that mimics the one you had with the full crack.

Splined motor shafts are designed and safest for plastic pinions.

[goosenapper]

I wrecked a Ninco pinion press getting a brass pinion on a fly motor with a knurled shaft. It was a major pain in the ass and I don't recommend it. Do what Harry suggested and hold some sandpaper to the shaft while the motor is running in order to smooth it out.

[slothead]

I solved the Fly pinion problem by installing some old Scalextric plastic pinions. Years ago I built a bunch of cars using toothbrush motors with pink Scalextric pinions from their tuning packs, but over time had to replace many of them for slipping. In this case the splines on the Fly motors are a blessing because they prevent the pinions from slipping. The cars have now run a few hundred laps without problems.

I expect to be adding more Fly historic race cars to my collection and may need to have more spare pinions on hand.

Also, I still have many cars up to 8 yrs old with toothbrush motors that are still running. Running 3 volt motors at 16 volts makes the cars a bit twitchy and over time I'll convert them to MT-5 motors with Pla-Fit pinions and harvest those pink pinions.

Slothead

[HomeRacingWorld]

16 volts?

[nhdungeonracer]

16 volts?!?! :o

[Z-carfan]

Ouch!


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