by DManley » Fri Jan 15, 2016 11:48 pm
The shorting / arcing across the rails is a major factor for some people. Replacing fuses every time a pin car spins out can make for a long day. The longer guide flags are a lot smoother in the slot than a pin, too. Any little rough spot on the side of the slot, especially in a curve, will catch the pin a little bit each time it goes by. After running a few races with a guide pin. that little rough spot can turn into a big rough spot pretty quickly. The flag spreads the side load out a little bit and is more forgiving than a pin, especially a metal pin! Both the fact that the flag is made of a fairly soft material and the fact that it is mounted with some flex helps reduce the wear and tear a bit. This is especially true on routed MDF tracks, as the slots can start to tear up pretty quickly. The last consideration that I can think of is deslots. That guide flag spreads the force of the car out a bit and usually has a fairly smooth bottom. I have seen heavy brass cars with metal pins leave a mark in the paint as they slide across the track. I have also seen a pin dig in and rip the copper tape while sliding through another lane. They can also play havoc with track braids when they slide over them. We used to have a couple of guys running steel pins on our (mostly plastic) club tracks , but after we started running on some routed tracks, they agreed to go to flags.
One last thought. If you have photoeyes mounted across the slot, you need the flag to count a lap. The pin will just fly through without triggering the lap counter! A few tracks actually rely upon the guide flag to break the beam.