One Piece Driver Bust

[HomeRacingWorld]

I wanted a one piece driver bust for our Sportsman Showdown models. I also wanted a more modern full helmet version. I do not do two part molds as some do, so this is just a straight pour part. This means it helps to keep the arms flat. I can easily heat and move them up if I want to.

The torso area might be an older MT or Bob Taylor resin. Not sure as I have so many. In any case I cleaned one up and used an old SCX NASCAR driver bust. Pretty generic overall and felt it played the role well enough.



I made my own "safety" seat back using scrap styrene plastic. Just created a common shape and glued it to the back. To fill the gaps I dripped resin into each side and let it settle and dry. I trimmed the excess up and sprayed the entire figure with Duplicolor clear to seal it.



My mold box is crude by others standard but it works. Thin scrap styrene sheet folded and hot glued. The base is vinyl sign board. I use clear nail polish to secure the part to the base. This seals the edges nicely.



For small parts like this I like using the Alumilite brand silicone. Inexpensive and it is very flexible, making it easy to pull out the smaller parts.



It states there is no need to vacuum, but I have one so why not? I used a plastic Solo cup for the container.



Looks ok so far but time for the first pour.



That will do. Just a little flashing to trim off.



A little paint and it works well enough for our models.

[chappyman66]

Nice tutorial Harry.
This is exactly how I did the vintage Monogram interior trays and drivers.
Super easy.

[FC47]

Slick! Thanks Harry!

[RazorJon]

I need a few of those :text-bravo: great job Harry

[mattb]

P1010003.JPGThe high strength Alumilite is so flexible that it's pretty easy to make drivers with the heads and arms attached. I have noticed that it is taking a long time for my rubber to cure. Not sure if it the clay I use is causing a problem or if I'm not getting the mix right. It's the same clay I have used for 5 years or so. Harry you notice any difference in cure time? I'm waiting over 24 hours to demold and it is still sticky.

I keep this F1 Cox driver mold out whenever I pour for the extra plastic. It makes nice drivers with just a split under eaxch arm to allow the mold to fill and the part released. I have been able to make the full Cox Chaparral driver in a one piece mold that I split to allow the hands and fingers and legs to fill with plastic.

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[HomeRacingWorld]

Thanks guys.

Matt, sounds like the mix ratio is off, or the silicone is near the end of pot life.

This took 12 hours or so to fully cure. Once I release the original, I give it 2 more hours before using.

I will say always add a "splash" or two extra over the ratio.

[mattb]

Harry, it could be my scale, maybe low batteries. It is about 2 years old or more and was $6 from Ebay with free shipping.
It might be time for a new one or at least a battery change. I would use more activator, but when you get to the end of the rubber you won't have enough activator unless you open a new box!!

For guys wanting to experiment this silicone is about $18 from Hobby Lobby if you use the online 40% discount.
Next time I need a big quantity, I think I will try the silicone Mark uses. It is pretty reasonable and he has good luck with it.

This driver is the Cox Chaparral Gurney Ford full driver and all three pieces are made with one piece mold.

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[Gameover]

These are great! Ive tried making drivers and fail every time. Nice work boss

[Broman62]

Oh yeah...that’ll work!!! Throw a couple in my return box after Showdown and I’ll pay/donate you for them :D :D !!