F1 proxy Wheel/Tire options.....Update

[chappy]

They did initially Chris , but you are correct , i am not sure once glued and trued.

Darius i also have a Lotus with the very long shaft stock scaley. I think using the 1.5 to 2 mm hollow extension may be the best way . To be safe Christian had them in stock . I suppose that if you stripped an old FF armature shaft down you could also use the above noted steel hollow tube as connectors, but i think the less connections the better.
https://www.slotcarcorner.com/1-32-Slot ... p2111.html

These are on the SCC USA site
Bob

[chrisguyw]

[Audi1]

Thanks Chris; again, very helpful.

Another route; although it requires that you use another motor; the M/T SL-2 motor has the longer shaft; it is the same length as those that come stock on the 2017 Scaley F1 cars.

Allan

[Radarek]

Allan

Any idea where I can get those mt2 motors?

Chris

Thanks for help.

Darius

[chrisguyw]

[chappy]

The Scaley long shaft for cars like the lotus is really long. I suspect you will still need the dreaded hollow extender to gain the 8+ mm you will need beyond the SL2s length.
Bob

[Audi1]

Yes, I guess that's right, because the shaft on the SL-2 is about 0.5".

Allan

[Ky.Slot Racer]

I have a issue, after getting things to a rolling chassis status. Using CB Design F1 14" wheels with NSR5220 SuperGrip 20x13 F1 Tires, the crown gear hump on the bottom of the chassis rubs the 1/32 clearance scale, and actually keeps the tires from fully touching the track. Mind you these have not been trued yet.... :?

[Audi1]

Yes, I haven't gotten as far as you are yet, but I'm already seeing this problem with slip-on NSR Ultragrips, un-glued/un-trued, on the wheels that you mention. I'm not sure what the actual solution will be at this point; growing pains.

Clearly the tires will need to be trued, which will reduce their radius some. Two possibilities are to: 1. lower the clearance spec, and/or 2. allow the chassis crown gear hump to be sanded flush with the rest of the chassis plate. I'm open to other solutions.

Allan

[Radarek]

15mm rims?

[chrisguyw]

[GTOking]

My McLaren Mercedes 2011 (I think, could be 2010) has no hump, the chassis bottom is flat. No adjustment needed on this model. I think for those that need an adjustment sanding it flush is the way to go. I would not be for 15" wheels since I have already bought several sets of 14"s.

[Ky.Slot Racer]

So, is sanding the hump the remedy?

[Audi1]

Yes, sanding the crown gear hump flush with the bottom of the chassis, or the bottom of the magnet holder, is an acceptable solution. I tried it last night and here are a couple of pics of the outcome (they're not the greatest shots - it was late and I didn't have my tripod set up):





I was pleasantly surprised to find that you could sand the bottom of the crown gear hump flush with the bottom of the magnet carrier and not break through the plastic, so at least on the newer cars, it's fairly thick in that particular area.

The magnet carrier is another issue all by itself. In an effort to increase downforce, Scaley has put the bottom of their magnet carrier structure lower than the chassis plate. So, we may need an exclusion to the clearance spec for both the crown gear unit bump (which would mean that you wouldn't need to sand it down) and the magnet carrier structure; just like spur gear clearance is usually excepted from the clearance rules in other proxies. I'll know better when I get my tires glued up, trued and mounted on the car; so stay tuned for more on the clearance topic. The intent will certainly be to have a clearance rule that is consistent with a reasonably easy wheel/tire set-up.

I've added to the clearance Rule in the first post, page one of the Rules and Registration thread, but as I said above, this may be subject to further changes. I'll put up a separate thread and a big notice sign when the clearance rule is in its final form.

Allan

[chrisguyw]

Hello again..!!

There was a bit of discussion in the "rules and registration" thread on leaving a bit of the grooves on the tire when truing (to achieve clearance), and, the results this may have on performance.

I have mounted/trued a few pr. of tires (NSR Ultra/Super, and Slot-it F22's) on Slot-it/NSR wheels, and the quickest/most consistent (by a teeny tiny amount) have been the NSR 20 x 13 Supers' with a bit of "groove" remaining.....(top right in the attached pic.)

These were marginally quicker (by a very small margin) than the NSR Ultras, mounted on the same Slot-it F1 wheels, but, trued to eliminate any trace of the "grooves".

The F22's were just a snick behind the NSR's on my track, which is an averagely grippy track.....(flat latex surface), and based on the relative times, I would not rule out these tires as an option (particularly if you are having clearance issues). For the relatively light weight of these cars, and the motors we are using, all these tires have more than enough grip, and the "best" tire may well differ track to track.

So.....as every single pair of tires is different, this little test certainly does not prove that leaving some "groove" on the tire is the way to go, but, it appears reasonable to suggest that a slight reduction in contact patch (leaving a bit of the grooves), is not detrimental to the lap times of these cars......for what it is worth, (and don't say,...not much ;) ), I will be sending in a car with "grooves"

Cheers
Chris Walker

"Grooved" tires on the top right............