What's on your bench right now? [1/43]

[taskak]

[pfuetze]

Aki, the palm trees look great! I really like them!

nice work on the grandstands!

the whole track is coming together nicely! looks great!

[BARC 1]

Hi Aki

Track looks good. It is amazing what a little paint can do . As Peter said the whole track is shaping up nice

[taskak]

[walker]

Are you really afraid a 43rd scale car could bend the brass tubes ? We built 24th scale with really powerful motors with them and nothing happened.
An advantage is the additional weight on a deep point that helps improving the c.o.g.

Roland

[taskak]

[walker]

It has nothing to do with soldering together, Aki. The tubing of this dia. is stiff enough to even withstand the forces of an old, heavy and strong C - can 26 AWG race motor. In 24th scale cars. With an old, heavy chassis made from brass.
So in a 43rd scale chassis
- that is about half as big in size
- much less weight
- whose levers are corresponding short and
- whose motors are totally weak compared to bigger scale motors

it is the softness and elasticity of the printed parts that are the weak point, by no means these short pieces of tubing.
Even if you crash a chassis without body frontally into the banking of your track you will not bend or break the brass parts.
Roughen the tubings, use a good 2k glue ( JB Weld for example ) and glue together the plastic parts and the tubings. So you prevent any torsion and get a really stiff and tough chassis.
I make my chassis - among other - from 1mm two - sided copper PCB and don´t have any problems, and when I use brass tubings lengthwise in a chassis ( in 43rd scale cars of course ), they are max. 1.5 mm dia.

Regards,

Roland.

And thanks for the pictures and the PM !

[pfuetze]

Aki, what i would do:

make the chassis straight, align it proper.
roughen the tubes where they are inside the printed parts.
use a very think CA glue (superglue) and put the CA on the printed parts.
the printed parts made out of WSF will act like a sponge (you might already know this ;-) )
in this way the brass tubes will be really fixed in the perfext position.

if there is further streghtening needed, you can add the 2K epoxy like Roland described between the parts.

nice progress on the track!

[walker]

I did not describe to add epoxy between the parts, Peter. I wrote the same you repeated then - the difference being that I advised 2K glue and you CA.
I advise 2K because it has a longer pot life so that you are able to do adjustment yet even when the glue is already placed. And it has this tiny bit of extra flexibility CA is missing.

Regards,

Roland

[pfuetze]

sorry, Roland.

i thought it was different, beacause you would have to add the epoxy before putting the chassis together.

because of the printed material acting like a sponge, with CA, you can put the chassis together, align it and as a last step, you can add the CA.

[taskak]

[pfuetze]

looks great now, Aki!
good to hear that it worked out.
i like the place to take photos - it´s a great shot you posted there!

[walker]

[pfuetze]

nice casting, Roland!

i think the WSF material from shapeways is a great material for chassis. just the right amount of stiffnes and flex. the only thing is that it is acting like a sponge, which is due to the production process.
it soaks paint and glue like a sponge ...

i do not want my chassis or wheels be names sponge chassis LOL

is that clear Mustang a clear casted body? how brittle is that material?

[walker]

I agree that SHAPEWAY´s material is really good for chassis and hubs. And the rough surface can be treated - if one needs it...

Yes the Mustang is cast. The material is sturdy, a bit elastic and not brittle at all. Have a look at the glass part behind the McLaren. It is a copy of the vacformed original glass part. It would not have been possible to be cast if it were brittle, because it is really thin.
The Mustang was an attempt because I´m sick and tired of disassembling diecasts or SPARK, Neo and similar hi-tech models for casting.