Thread to share 3d files

[HWPSlotCars]

[-Nimrod-]

Hi HWP,

I'll usually keep to OBJ, 3DS, DAE and even SKP files until the very end. That way I can keep the mesh intact as much as possible.
I've found, especially with Sketchup, if I create an STL early on, it will usually make a mess of the mesh, so now I mostly import/export DAE files.
I'd love to know more about Blender as it's very powerful software and great for 3D printing.

The online bureau MakePrintable has been the life saver for me as I now use them for all the final translations to STL.
I used to use NetFAbb religiously in the past to create STL files, but still got, albeit minor, issues with the mesh here or there.

Example of STL import to Sketchup:


Example of DAE (or OBJ) import to Sketchup:


Cheers
NimROD

[HWPSlotCars]

The trouble there is that importing previously triangulated meshes makes it very hard to select flowlines should you need to make smooth selective adjustments or correction. Plus low-poly triangulated models don't smooth as well as quad-faced low-poly models when applying a subsurf modifier. There are actions within Blender and other 3D tools that can convert triangles to quads. But the problem is that the software doesn't always guess correctly which edges to maintain and which ones to remove. And thus the flowlines are quite often ignored or destroyed. But given the resolution of most home printers, and the amount of filling and sanding necessary, the rougher models may be adequate. I'd definitely recommend Blender to anyone interested in 3D modeling and printing. There are very useful addons specifically for the task which can greatly improve your modeling and file prep workflows.

[-Nimrod-]

[HWPSlotCars]

2 other options to consider:

Blender has a tool to convert Tri's to Quads. Works great! But I don't if there are settings you can tweak to control which edges are deleted to convert 2 conjoined tris to 1 quad. You may end up losing the edge loops which follow the flow lines of the car. But worth playing around with on a duplicate of the mesh and seeing what control settings can be applied.

The other may be easier than redrawing the portion... delete the left or right half of the car's mesh - assuming it is symetrical. (so you don't have to do 2x's the work). Then manually select the diagonal edges one or more at a time and either "delete edge loops" or "Delete edges only". You should be left with a quad face that you can then control better with your subsurf settings. Once you cleaned up 1 side of the car, simply apply a Mirror modifier to clone the other side.

I only draw one side of a car at first. Mirror Modifier. Then after applying it (to a duplicate Mesh in case I need to go back), I can go in to add assymetrical details like gas caps, steering wheels, driver's side fins like on the Jaguar D-type.

Hope this helps! If you want, post me a file that I can play around with, and post you a video screen grab of the process.

Fun stuff!

- Jim (HWP)

[-Nimrod-]

Thank you Jim
I really appreciate all the help and advice

Cheers
Nimrod

[-Nimrod-]

A Quick Update
Shadow DN4
A few more details to add, grills and vents.
Jim I may call on your expertise to help finish the detailing off, prior to prepping the final STL for printing, if that's ok with you.



The P68 is also almost finished, engine detail is now separate.


I ran out of plastic thread, so will be reprinting this one for a forum member very soon.

I was thinking of posting the full list of cars I can extract and hold a vote to select the next car, what do you think?

Cheers
NiMROD

[HWPSlotCars]

[-Nimrod-]

Hi All,

The Shadow DN4 is done (for now)
It took far longer than anticipated, but I've learned a lot along the way (like, should have restarted from scratch and quads) and thank you to Jim for his advice along the way.
I gave the model an even deeper clean, resisting to restart it, I'm a bit like that LOL
It's not the best model but it is one that is available for free.



Now if some kind people on this forum could tell me the actual dimensions of the real car or what they should be at 1/32, I can send some Emails and maybe get a print started.

Cheers
NimROD

[racer1h]

I can only find the wheelbase.....105”
I believe that is 83.4mm in 1/32.......but I suck at math.

Looking forward to printing the Shadow.

[ccobra]

Based off of the 105"(2667mm) wheelbase and using cad with a couple of pictures I came up with an OAL of 5.725"(145.2mm) and an OAW of 2.157"(54.8mm) and these could go either way since they are guesstimates at best taken off of pictures.

[racer1h]

Are you including the rear wing overhang?
With out the wing I was going for about 123mm on the body and 60mm wide at the rear.
What do you think.

[FC47]

Thot I had em but can only find my pics. 105 is the wheelbase.
I have a clean side view photo of the car, you're welcome to it Vlad. If I hit the lottery I'll just walk out to the shop, cuz it'll be next to the M23...
I think what the guys above me here posted get you in the ballpark.
The hard numbers must be a state secret!

[ccobra]

[ccobra]