by Florida_Slotter » Mon Jan 06, 2014 8:55 am
slotracin,
Well there is just so much more to tuning than slapping a pair of silicone tires on the rear. I have to assume that nothing has been done.
Personally, I've come to love either Yellow Dog or Paul Gage urethane tires. They grip almost as well on plastic as silicomes do, but they do not have the fall-off that is associated with dirt on them as the silicones do. Just my opinion however.
Another reason I like the urethanes is simple; I glue then true all my tires. There is nothing in the world like a slot car with round wheels and tires. It just 'glides' down the track. Do it once and you will see why so many folks take the time to do this.
Remember, the closer you get the mass of the car to the surface of the track will make a huge difference in how well the car handles. Just keep 1 mm of ground clearance to avoid any damage to the track's surface. Many slot cars are so tall, that I've been known to glue a piece of .064 x 1.000 brass strip to the bottom of the chassis to help in getting the weight lower. This works well on sidewinders as you have that big gear to contend with.
Bibbster had put together an article on getting all the play out of the bushings on your slot car. I've been doing this on all cars that have knurled axles. To allow for clearance when assembling the car, the bushing holes are larger than required. This will make a car "hop" under hard acceleration. I use a drop of oil, followed by a drop of CA Super Glue in the bushings to tighten them up. "Hop" is not there now. I found out that my friend, an A/C technician uses the same approach to compressors that have loose bushings. Small world, ain't it.
Finally, do not forget the guide flag. It should sit in the slot as far as it will go. I try to set my ride height so the front wheels just touch the track's surface.
I'm sure that if you do some of this, those cars will be unleashed.