Slot Car Photography

[fotodoug]

You could buy a neutral density filter, or, if you have two polarizers that you can screw together, you can adjust them down to zero light by opposing them (for the days you are shooting on the surface of the sun!). You get the same effect when you try to use a bank machine that has a polarizing filter on the display, and you are wearing polarizing sunglasses...can't see nuthin'! How are you doing this? (the perspective thing)

[whitworthnut]

Trial and error at this point. I'm shooting about 18" from the car and about 120' to the background. I'm using an 18-55 lens on manual focus to keep things in relative balance. My F stop is around 30 if I recall. With lower intensity lighting (morning or overcast) I should be able to increase the saturation a little. I was initially using a very low ISO setting (L10) as I do in low light situations but found that 600 worked better. Again, I think lower light levels will make all the difference and let me capture more detail fore and aft. If you have any ideas, feel free to jump in. I won't give up 'til it's right. Again, nice to see you on this forum. I'm sure your expertise will be appreciated.

[whitworthnut]

[whitworthnut]

[DAVE]

I've done a lot of model railroad photography for magazines, but what you have done, Peter, is open my
eyes to the possibilities of slot car photography. You do great work.

[whitworthnut]

Thank you Dave. It's all very much an experiment for me right now. Lots of fine tuning to be done, but I'm quite happy with the results so far.

[whitworthnut]

[Ember]

I need a GTM K3. Too many pretty cars. Not enough time or money.

[whitworthnut]

[Ember]

Some ND filters may help as Doug suggested, but I think you may be worrying too much for nothing. A bit of 'Shopping on the ground shadows to desaturate them may be all you need.

[Ember]

Thinking further. Some reflectors placed to fill in a little of the under car shadows would help.

[fotodoug]

What ISO, and f stop do you shoot at?

[whitworthnut]

[fotodoug]

First off, I'm assuming you are using a tripod. I don't know what ISO 1.0 is...set it at 100 or as low as your camera will go. If you want to get the image brighter, lower your shutter speed. I understand why you use f32, but if you are image stacking, f8, or f11 is more than enough.(frequently, the lens is sharper at those f stops anyway) Set up your diorama where the light appeals to you...set your camera so that you have the cropping you want. With the ISO set to the lowest number your camera has, set the f stop to 11. Put the camera in manual mode, and adjust your shutter speed until you get the exposure you want...I frequently shoot at 1 second or longer. You shouldn't handle the camera when you are using long shutter speeds, so set the camera's self timer at 2 seconds, or whatever is convenient. That means when you press the shutter button, the camera will wait the programmed time before it trips the shutter. That way there is no movement on the part of the camera. At f11, you may have to take more images to stack, but that doesn't matter...the end result will be much more predictable. Make sure at the same time, to shield the front lens element from any sunlight. That may require a second tripod with a black card attached to shield the lens from any unwanted light that may flare, and reduce contrast.

This may seem like a lot of screwing around initially, but you will get used to doing these basic things, and they will give you the results your talent obviously deserves!

[whitworthnut]

Thanks Doug. ISO L1.0 is 3 steps below ISO 200, so it is as low as I can go. I'm shooting in Aperture mode, so my shutter speed is whatever the camera decides based on my F stop at around F30 (usually around 2.5-3). My shutter opens no more than a second at these settings in full light conditions. Going fully manual might help if I had more experience. I am using a tripod and a remote. I'm not focus stacking these shots, so I was looking for as great a depth of field as possible.

Why would I use F11 versus F 30 if I am focus stacking? Is the software happier with distinctly out of focus bits to decipher? Is this why I am having difficulty getting a good focus stacked image or is because I am using CS2.

I do have a plastic lens hood but don't typically use it. I assume you recommend its use.

In the couple of photos of mine that you have touched up/brightened, what are you using - curve adjustment or Brightness/contrast. I don't seem to have much success with either although curves is better and leaves the photo less washed out.