HRW 1/32 "Sportsman Showdown"

[TuscoTodd]

Austin - I like what I am seeing so far! Nice, flat and low chassis center section/rails with built in stops on your guide tongue to keep from over rotating while drifting! Should make a good, solid platform!
:handgestures-thumbup: :handgestures-thumbup:

[btaylor]

Your body mount/ chassis weight platform is in a perfect balance spot. should help keep you in the slot, and provide adequate overall ballast for the car. simple yet effective design.

Bob

[turbokev]

Austin.. Something I learned going to short tracks in New England for years...
More often than not, the ugly cars were the FAST cars :mrgreen:

It'll be heavy down low, and should perform pretty well.. don't throw in the towel..
Build a body for that rig and see how it goes.. I'll be more than happy to have you come
over for an afternoon of testing and tuning on my oval ~ So get it done!

[waaytoomuchintothis]

Soooo... you think his car is ugly, eh? Well, see how fast he comes to YOUR place. Better have some tasty beverages for him, I'd say!

Seriously, Austin, that is a very good shot at future excellence. I actually was so ashamed of my first chassis that I stripped the parts off it and quietly left it in the trash can at my LHS in 1966. I made it by soldering the wires that held the bundles of newspapers together from my paper route. And it was a rail dragster! Must have weighed half a pound with all the glopped-on solder it had. I aligned it by bending the finished chassis with pliers. You did great.

[HomeRacingWorld]

Never say die! Way to keep after it Austin.

[strangebrew]

I'm gonna' 'fess up here Austin........
The reason I make my chassis from styrene or small brass rod is because I have lots of trouble soldering heavier brass like your doing.
I still use an old Weller gun for my work. I had trouble getting both sides of the brass rods on the rear motor bracket because I tried to
use the small torch I have & one side fell off as I heated the other side. I gave up & used soldering flux & went back to the iron.
By using small rod you can tack the rods together, throw on the wheels & twist the heck out of it 'till it's square & level.
Then I sit back, get an adult beverage & visulize where the reinforcement needs to be. It's a piece of cake to add lightweight rods where you need them with no fear of others dropping off. Just like when we built the 1:1's.....THINK TRIANGLE. My chassis is very light, but I'll
wager it's just as stiff as the heavier brass stuff. Being light you can add ballast where it needs to be, again just like the 1:1's.
You've got lots of time to experiment. ONE THING........I think I'd take the motor out for the rest of the build to avoid the heat & polution.
Remember every piece of metal on your frame is a heat sink & sucks the heat from your work. Take out the axles also when heating the
tubing. Did I mention soldering paste (or flux)?? Use it liberally & make sure you're using acid core solder for the brass.
You'll get there:

[pastor bubba]

Thanks for the tips as well since I need to start mine any day now.

[btaylor]

Playing with my showdown ford a bit today, the 57 body met an untimely death, so I switched to a 55 instead. working pretty good so far! Love the "Stinker" Chassis and Piranha motor combo.

[TuscoTodd]

Good lookin' '55! :D

[HomeRacingWorld]

My my my...would you look at these beauties???

Well done guys. Bob, your killin' me with that paint. I tried a similar look on a car now and I can't make those nice, curved lines. Scalloped they call it?

And STP on a Mopar? What a cool look Dave.

Well done guys...it's getting hot in here.

[Retro Racer 44]

[TuscoTodd]

W O W !!!
That looks tough!
Very cool!

[btaylor]

Retro, that Camaro looks positively evil with those fat tires!, Nice build.
Bob

[HomeRacingWorld]

Oh yes indeedy. Very well done. You did quite well for your first ever...looks like you have been making them for years.

[RazorJon]