Working with a 3D body

[dreinecke]

I've been working with 3D models since late 2005 as the basis for a good number of my RMS Resins offerings. Using a 3D printed body directly as a car is very odd for me after years of resin work. It is a completely different feeling doing this on an FDM printed body than the SLS ones I'd been using. However, with a little work, this is very doable and not difficult.

The main concern with FDM is the lines produced. The good news is that with only a few coats of primer, a little putty and easy sanding, the body can turn out pretty smooth. I'll be documenting my Birdcage build here - and WARNING: It will go slow as I'm not able to do this quickly.

A basic print - notice this has the glass as part of the body - easily removable:



Glass now cut off using an X-Acto. This can also be done in a program such as Tinkercad, but I decided to leave it on so I can use it for vacforming glass later:



1st coat of primer on to see what we've got:



After sanding the above, I then used a little automotive red glazing putty to fill a few of the most textured areas, sanded and re-primed:



Now, right out of the gate, it is obvious with this much primer on, the door gaps, etc start to disappear. This is is obviously a by-product of the filler/primer, but can be remedied by either re-cutting the lines in or using decals.

So, that's where it is at, and hopefully helps those looking to print their own body.

Last comment: This is the ONLY correct 1/32 Birdcage model. All of the 1960's toys were horrible scale-wise and numerous resin folks have simply re-cast those over the years. This car model came from years of research. Lastly, the bulbous fenders on this thing are a B@$#@$#%$@$# to get right by hand. It required a model in 3D to ensure they were all symmetrical. My OCD couldn't deal with some of the terrible resins out there ;)

[chappyman66]

And for what it's worth, the car is TINY.
Almost looks like a 1/43 next to some GTP cars. It's a challenge to get a motor and chassis under there.....

[HomeRacingWorld]

Looking good to me, it really smoothed out!

[dreinecke]

It is tiny!

[Dodgefarmer]

[ccobra]

Have you tried a couple of thin coats of the XTC-3D epoxy? It fills in the gaps nice and is sand-able while leaving a nice glossy finish. I mix up around 8 grams at a time depending on the size of vehicle so as not to waste the material.

[Broman62]

That is freaking sweet Dave!! Hopefully this is the beginning of a long line of bodies that will be printed and made available for sale!! Hopefully down the road someone will print out a 1/32 Willy’s body or a ‘57 Chevy body :clap: :clap:

[Dangermouse]

Thank you for sharing - hoping your build includes instructions on making the 'birdcage'

cheers
David

[waaytoomuchintothis]

I have always struggled with the Birdcage bodies, and I wasted money on a few of them. This gives me hope. I am even looking ahead to see if someone will do the amazing version with the exhausts exiting the rear fenders above the wheels.

[Guildman]

Having made a 1/12th scale Birdcage chassis and been exposed to no fewer than 5 of them in one place while gathering info, I can confirm that many of the available models are trash. The Midlantic Models (Illustra) in 1/43rd is a good one and my son has repopped that for anyone who's interested in that scale. The Streamliner was rebuilt entirely a few years ago at Steve Hart Racing (well known Maser expert). He got the works drawings and found the existing streamliner was way out so had a new body built to the works drawings.
Of course, with the 'cage, it doesn't stop at the bodywork. You HAVE to reproduce the steel frame that shows behind the dashboard. At least. Good luck!

I would put a pic of my chassis model up, but no idea how to!

Martin

[-Nimrod-]

More great info, Thanks David

Cheers
NimROD

[ccobra]

Do you have a birdcage yet? If you want one I can send you the file. I had to make the tubing larger than the scaled 12-18mm tubing size since when printing on an angle the 0.035 diameter is too small to completely print, even though it looks good on the screen.

It's an inline chassis that uses slot-it parts like the flag, and gears. The motor is a Tuna 16k but any H&R or Piranha will work also. And the front axles are 3/32 rivets. The motor goes up from below and is attached with two 2mm screws and the rear axle uses the 3/32 x 3/16 bushings.

Just needs seats, steering wheel, and a driver added to complete the interior.

[-Nimrod-]

FANTASTIC WORK!!!

Cheers
Nimrod

[chappyman66]

Most excellent chassis work...well done!
Yes, I would love to have the file.

[dreinecke]

Wow!!! That looks great. I am worried about a full can fitting under it

Can I please have you email me that?

Thanks!